Perched on a pink granite promontory overlooking the winding Armançon River, Semur-en-Auxois is one of Burgundy’s most charming medieval towns. Situated in the Côte-d’Or department, this captivating destination offers visitors a remarkable journey through time, featuring imposing fortress towers, cobblestone streets, and breathtaking panoramic views. The town’s name, “Semur,” comes from the Latin “sine muro,” meaning “without walls.” Ironically, its formidable fortifications have become one of its defining features since the Middle Ages. Today, Semur-en-Auxois retains its rich heritage while providing modern comforts for those seeking an authentic experience of French provincial life.

The first sight of Semur-en-Auxois is unforgettable: four massive round towers rise dramatically above the river gorge, linked by ancient walls that have withstood centuries of history. Once a stronghold of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy, the town played a significant role during the Hundred Years’ War and has preserved much of its medieval character despite the passage of time.

Practical Information: Getting There and Around

Transportation Options

Reaching Semur-en-Auxois requires some planning, as the town is not directly accessible by train or plane. Here are your best options:

By Car: The most convenient way is by car, with a dedicated exit from the A6 Autoroute. Look for the distinctive cracked tower on the hill; it serves as a natural landmark guiding visitors to the town. From Paris, expect approximately a 3-hour drive (250 km), while Lyon is about 2.5 hours away (220 km).

By Bus: The Mobigo regional bus service connects Semur-en-Auxois to nearby transportation hubs. Regular connections run to Montbard (20 km away) and Dijon (80 km away), both of which are accessible via high-speed rail lines. A one-way ticket costs just €1.50, regardless of distance—an exceptional value for budget travelers. Schedules vary seasonally, so it is advisable to check the Mobigo website before planning your journey.

Nearest Train Stations:

• Montbard: 20 km (TGV high-speed trains from Paris take just 1 hour)
• Dijon: 80 km (A major regional hub with connections throughout France)

Navigating the Town

Semur-en-Auxois is perfectly sized for exploration on foot. The historic center within the medieval walls is primarily pedestrianized, allowing for a pleasant environment to wander without traffic concerns. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, as the town is built on varying elevations, featuring some steep sections and cobblestone streets.

The Tourism Office (Office de Tourisme) is conveniently situated near one of the city’s historic gates, making it an excellent starting point for visitors. Its multilingual staff provide maps, brochures, and valuable local insights. The office is generally open from 9:30 AM to 12:30 PM and 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM, with extended hours in summer and reduced hours in winter.

Visitors with mobility limitations should be aware that the medieval layout includes many steps and inclines. However, the main commercial street and several key attractions are accessible to those with limited mobility.

Magnificent Sights: What Not to Miss

The Medieval Fortifications

The town’s most distinctive feature is its remarkable defensive system, which has remarkably survived intact. Four massive towers dominate the skyline, remnants of the castle that was demolished in the 17th century:

Tour de l’Orle d’Or (Golden Belt Tower): The tallest of the four towers offers visitors the opportunity to climb to its summit for spectacular panoramic views. Inside, there is a fascinating museum operated by the Society of Science and Natural History, open afternoons in July and August (closed Mondays) and on select weekends in May, June, and September. Guided tours are available in French and English. Admission: €3.

Pinard Tower (Tour Pinard): This tower is easily recognizable by the distinctive crack running down one side, a result of damage sustained during historical conflicts that has not compromised its structural integrity.

Prison Tower (Tour de la Prison): Once the town’s detention facility, this imposing structure features thick walls and narrow windows characteristic of medieval defensive architecture.

Renaissance Tower (Tour de la Renaissance): Distinguished by its unique wooden “chessboard” roof, this tower represents a later architectural period than its counterparts.

Walking the ramparts offers breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside and river valley. The well-maintained 1.5 km circuit around the perimeter provides numerous photographic opportunities, especially beautiful during early morning or late afternoon light.

Collégiale Notre-Dame

Majestically standing in the town center, the Collégiale Notre-Dame (Notre-Dame Collegiate Church) is one of Burgundy’s finest examples of Gothic architecture. Construction began in 1225, and the structure underwent significant restoration work by the renowned architect Viollet-le-Duc in the 19th century.

The exterior features an impressive western façade adorned with intricate stone carvings, showcasing remarkable representations of biblical figures and scenes. Inside, visitors can admire soaring vaulted ceilings, beautiful stained glass windows from various periods, and a peaceful atmosphere perfect for contemplation.

The chevet (eastern end) of the church is particularly noteworthy and is best appreciated from the small park behind the building. This location highlights the two-level architectural design, showcasing the sophisticated building techniques employed by medieval craftsmen.

The church is open daily from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with extended summer hours until 7:00 PM. Entry is free, although donations for maintenance are appreciated. Guided tours can be arranged through the Tourism Office.

The Armançon River and Bridges

The river flowing beneath Semur-en-Auxois adds significantly to the town’s charm, offering some of its most photogenic views. Two historic bridges connect the banks:

Pont Joly (Joly Bridge): This elegant stone bridge provides what many consider the definitive view of Semur-en-Auxois, where the fortress towers and church spire rise dramatically above the water. Early morning visits often reward photographers with misty, atmospheric conditions over the river.

Pont des Minimes (Minimes Bridge): The second bridge provides alternative perspectives of the town and connects to pleasant riverside walking paths. Nearby, the 19th-century lavoir (washhouse) offers insights into traditional domestic life before modern conveniences.

Although access to some sections of the riverbank is limited by private property, several vantage points allow visitors to appreciate the natural beauty that complements the town’s architectural heritage.

Hidden Treasures and Lesser-Known Attractions

Hôtel de Chassey (Chassey Townhouse)

This elegant 18th-century residence represents a departure from medieval architecture, showcasing the refined tastes of Burgundian nobility during the Age of Enlightenment. While the Hôtel de Chassey remains privately owned, its beautifully landscaped gardens are open to visitors during summer afternoons.

The property offers one of the best vantage points for viewing the medieval fortifications, with carefully planned sightlines framing the ancient towers against seasonal plantings. Entry is free, but opening times can vary—check with the Tourism Office for current scheduling.

Convent of the Jacobins

Housing the town’s historical museum, this 17th-century former religious complex provides fascinating insights into local history. Exhibits include archaeological findings, traditional costumes, agricultural implements, and documentation of Semur’s development through the centuries. Although modest in size, the museum features thoughtful curation and informative multilingual displays.

Historic Streets and Architecture

Beyond the major landmarks, Semur-en-Auxois rewards curious explorers with atmospheric streets lined with buildings that span several centuries.

Rue du Vieux-Marché: “Old Market Street” showcases a collection of half-timbered medieval buildings alongside shops and cafés.

Place Notre-Dame: The main square surrounding the collegiate church is vibrant with activity, particularly on market days and during festivals.

Rampe Janly: This steep, winding lane connects various levels of the town, offering delightful viewpoints of rooftops and towers.

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Culinary Delights: Where to Eat and Drink

Burgundy is globally acclaimed for its exquisite cuisine and wines, and Semur-en-Auxois features several notable establishments where visitors can indulge in these culinary traditions:

Fine Dining

Le Mermoz at Hostellerie d’Aussois (Route de Saulieu): Located just outside town towards Saulieu, this restaurant provides refined dining in a sophisticated setting. While the set menu (€25) has received mixed reviews, the à la carte options highlight regional specialties prepared with skill. The extensive wine list includes exceptional Burgundian vintages. A three-course meal with quality wine typically averages around €85 per person. Reservations are recommended, especially during the summer months.

Casual Options

Les Minimes (near Pont des Minimes): This classic French auberge serves hearty traditional dishes in a rustic atmosphere. Specialties include bœuf bourguignon, coq au vin, and escargots made from local recipes. Its moderate pricing makes it a popular choice for both visitors and residents.

Café Mont-Drejet (Rue Buffon): Located in the pedestrian zone, this unpretentious café offers quality meals at reasonable prices. Though the food is not gourmet in presentation, it reflects authentic home-style cooking. It’s especially known for its exceptional ice cream during the summer. Closed on Mondays, it operates between lunch and dinner service on other days, making it convenient for travelers who need flexibility.

Wine and Beverages

Carpe Diem (Rue du Vieux-Marché): This charming wine bar near the church presents an excellent selection of Burgundian wines available by the glass—ideal for those wishing to sample different appellations without committing to full bottles. Live jazz performances enhance the atmosphere weekly, typically on Friday evenings.

Accommodation: Where to Stay

Semur-en-Auxois offers a range of accommodations, from historic properties with character to comfortable modern facilities:

Hotels

Hotel Des Cymaises (7 rue du Renaudot): This two-star hotel is housed in a renovated 19th-century mansion situated on a quiet street just off the main tourist area. Conveniently located near the Tourism Office and a bus stop, it offers clean, comfortable rooms equipped with modern amenities while preserving its historic character. Guests can enjoy a lovely private patio, providing a tranquil retreat after a day of sightseeing. Room rates range from €63 to €116 per night, with breakfast available for an additional €9 per person. Advance reservations are recommended during the peak season (May to September).

Vacation Rentals

La Maison sur l’Armançon: This charmingly converted mill overlooks the river, offering exceptional views and a delightful atmosphere. The property features a comfortable living room, a well-appointed main bedroom, a functional kitchen with a fireplace, and a terrace with a garden extending to the riverbank. Weekly rates range from €950 to €1,275, depending on the season, and minimum stay requirements may apply during the summer months.

Several additional guesthouses and B&Bs operate in and around Semur-en-Auxois, with the Tourism Office providing up-to-date listings and contact information for properties without an online presence.

Shopping and Local Products

Markets and Specialty Shops

The open-air market held Sunday mornings near the church offers an authentic glimpse into local life and provides opportunities to purchase regional products directly from producers. Fresh vegetables, artisanal cheeses, honey, and seasonal specialties create a colorful and aromatic experience. Arriving early (before 10:00 AM) ensures the best selection.

Le Coin du Monde (Rue du Vieux Marché): This charming grocery store specializes in high-quality local products, including the notable “Trinquelette” jam, regarded by connoisseurs as one of the finest available. A selection of various teas and fresh vegetables complements the inventory. Visitors staying longer can arrange to collect artisanal bread on Fridays, participating in a cherished local tradition.

Charcuterie Notre-Dame (near the church): Known for exceptional terrines and cooked hams, this establishment represents traditional Burgundian charcuterie at its finest. Local gourmets particularly recommend the free-range chicken. Phone: +33 3 80 97 06 17.

Artisanal Crafts

Several workshops in and around Semur-en-Auxois produce distinctive crafts that reflect regional traditions. Notable items include steampunk-inspired timepieces created by a local farmer living 30 kilometers from town and artistic hot air balloon sculptures crafted by an artist based 20 kilometers away. These unique pieces make memorable souvenirs, connecting visitors to the creative spirit of the region.

Day Trips and Surrounding Attractions

Semur-en-Auxois serves as an excellent base for exploring remarkable destinations within easy driving distance:

Fontenay Abbey (Abbaye de Fontenay)

Nestled in a serene wooded valley about 30 kilometers north of Semur-en-Auxois, this impeccably preserved Cistercian monastery dates back to 1118 and holds UNESCO World Heritage status. Its austere yet harmonious architecture exemplifies the principles of medieval monastic design. The abbey features an intact church, dormitory, cloister, and forge, providing visitors with a comprehensive understanding of monastic life. It is open daily, with entry fees around €10 for adults, and reduced rates for children and seniors.

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain

This beautiful medieval village lies approximately 15 kilometers east of Semur-en-Auxois. Renowned as the filming location for “Chocolat,” starring Juliette Binoche and Johnny Depp, Flavigny boasts an authentic atmosphere with its narrow winding streets and well-preserved historic buildings. The village is also famous for its abbey and the traditional production of anise candy, which visitors can tour and sample. There are no admission fees for exploring the village.

MuséoParc Alésia

Situated in Alise-Sainte-Reine, this modern interpretive center commemorates the historic battle of 52 BCE, in which Julius Caesar defeated Gallic forces led by Vercingetorix. Located about 25 kilometers from Semur-en-Auxois, the facility features archaeological remains alongside multimedia exhibitions and reconstructed fortifications. It is open daily with seasonal hours: February 15-March 31 (10:00-17:00), April-June and September-October (10:00-18:00), and July-August (10:00-19:00). Entry fees range from €9 to €11 for adults, with reduced rates for concessions (€7.50-€9) and children (€5.50-€7.50).

Noyers-sur-Serein

Although it requires a slightly longer drive (approximately 40 kilometers northwest), this extraordinarily well-preserved medieval village rewards visitors with its charming half-timbered houses, picturesque riverside setting, and regular artisan markets. Frequently listed among France’s most beautiful villages, Noyers features several appealing cafés and shops showcasing local crafts.

Practical Tips for Visitors

Best Times to Visit

Semur-en-Auxois welcomes visitors year-round, with each season offering unique experiences:

Spring (April-June): Mild temperatures and blooming landscapes create ideal conditions for exploration. The countryside is particularly lush, and visitor numbers remain moderate.

Summer (July-August): The peak season brings warmer weather, extended opening hours for attractions, and a variety of cultural events. While accommodation prices rise and popular sites become busier, the town rarely feels overcrowded compared to more famous destinations in Burgundy.

Autumn (September-October): The surrounding vineyards and forests display stunning foliage, while harvest activities enliven the region. Temperatures remain pleasant for sightseeing, and summer crowds diminish significantly.

Winter (November-March): The quietest season features occasional closures and reduced hours at attractions, offering atmospheric experiences of the medieval town with fewer tourists. December brings a magical ambiance with festive Christmas decorations.

Money-Saving Strategies

• The €1.50 flat-rate Mobigo bus service provides excellent value for travelers connecting from train stations or exploring nearby towns.
• Lunch menus (formule midi) generally offer better value than dinner options at the same restaurants, with prices around 30% lower for comparable quality.
• The Sunday market is a great place to gather picnic supplies at reasonable prices, ideal for enjoying riverside dining with million-euro views.
• If you plan to stay for several days, consider renting accommodations with kitchen facilities. This allows you to make use of exceptional local ingredients while managing costs.

Practical Considerations

• Many shops traditionally close on Mondays and during lunch hours (typically from 12:30 to 2:30 PM), so plan your shopping accordingly.
• While credit cards are widely accepted, smaller vendors at markets often prefer cash.
• The Town Hall (Mairie) offers free public Wi-Fi access in its vicinity.
• The nearest full-service hospital is located in Montbard (20 km away), but Semur-en-Auxois has a medical center for non-emergency situations.

Experiencing Local Life

Seasonal Events

Semur-en-Auxois hosts various events throughout the year that reflect local traditions and culture:

Medieval Festival (late May): The town comes alive with historical reenactments, period costumes, craft demonstrations, and themed banquets, mainly concentrated within the old city walls.

Music in the Ramparts (July-August): Evening concerts take place in historic buildings, providing atmospheric venues for classical, jazz, and traditional performances.

Harvest Celebrations (September-October): A range of food and wine events coincide with the region’s grape and agricultural harvests.

Authentic Experiences

In addition to structured activities, visitors can immerse themselves in local culture through:

Dawn Photography: Early risers can capture the town as it emerges from the morning mist, with the fortress towers dramatically silhouetted against the brightening sky—a perspective often missed by most tourists.

Fishing: The Armançon River boasts diverse aquatic life, and local fishing permits are available for visitors who wish to try their luck alongside resident anglers, who often share tips and stories.

“Sans les armes sur la piste du lion”: This self-guided discovery route (roadbook available at the Tourism Office for €1.50) takes participants off the beaten path for a 2-3 hour exploration of lesser-known aspects of Semur-en-Auxois and its surroundings. Sturdy footwear is recommended, as some sections follow unpaved countryside tracks.

Semur-en-Auxois offers an authentic medieval experience amidst stunning natural surroundings and comfortable amenities. The town retains its genuine character while providing excellent access to broader attractions in Burgundy. Beyond the picturesque views, visitors can discover peaceful corners, intricate architectural details, and opportunities to engage with local traditions, creating lasting memories for those willing to explore.

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