My name is Jena Hovor. I found myself in France in 2010 after graduating from journalism school, when I decided to take a short break before starting my career. What was supposed to be a three-month trip turned into my destiny and a lifelong passion. France captivated me with its incredible diversity: from the lavender fields of Provence to the majestic cliffs of Étretat, from the snow-capped peaks of the Alps to the sandy beaches of the French Riviera. Each region revealed a new facet of the French soul – the gastronomic abundance of Burgundy, the architectural heritage of Alsace, the wild beauty of Corsica, and the mysterious Brittany with its Celtic roots. Over 14 years, I've cycled more than 15,000 kilometers on French roads, explored all 13 metropolitan regions and overseas territories. I've created over 170 original routes, many of which pass through authentic villages and secret places known only to locals. I speak French, English, and Russian fluently, and have mastered the Provençal dialect. I still discover new corners of this amazing country every day. I am convinced that the real France lives not only in Paris and famous tourist spots, but also in small family wineries, local farmers' markets, and ancient castles hidden among vineyards.

Beaune (pronounced “bone”), the unofficial capital of Burgundy wine, seamlessly blends medieval charm, outstanding gastronomy, and world-class vineyards. This compact town is perfect for exploring on foot, as most attractions are within a 15-minute walk from the center.

Best time to visit: From May to October, you’ll enjoy pleasant weather, with fewer crowds in the spring and autumn. November is ideal for witnessing the famous wine auction, while July and August offer beautiful weather but attract more tourists and higher prices.

Getting there: You can take a train from Paris (2.5 hours, €30-80) or from Lyon (1.5 hours). Alternatively, driving via the A6 motorway is another option.

The Historic Center: A Journey Through Medieval Splendor

Hospices de Beaune (Hôtel-Dieu)

The crown jewel of Beaune is undoubtedly the magnificent Hospices de Beaune (Hôtel-Dieu), a 15th-century charitable hospital that serves as the town’s symbolic heart. Founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy, and his wife, Guigone de Salins, this architectural masterpiece was established to care for the poor and sick following the Hundred Years’ War. Today, it stands as one of the finest examples of French medieval architecture, housing a museum that attracts global visitors.

The most striking feature of the Hospices is its colorful geometric-patterned roof made of glazed tiles in vibrant shades of red, green, yellow, and black. This distinctive Burgundian roof style has become emblematic of the region. Inside, visitors can explore the Grand Hall of the Poor (Grande Salle des Pôvres), where rows of curtained beds once accommodated patients, and view the original kitchen, pharmacy, and chapel.

The museum’s centerpiece is the polyptych altarpiece “The Last Judgment” by Flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden, regarded as a masterpiece of early Flemish art. Audio guides (€13.50, included in admission) offer intriguing insights into the hospital’s operations and the daily lives of the nuns who cared for patients until 1971.

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Practical information:

  • Hours: Open daily from 9 am to 6:30 pm (April-September) and 9 am to 5:30 pm (October-March)
  • Admission: €13.50 for adults, free for children under 10
  • Time-saving tip: Purchase tickets online to avoid queues, especially during the summer and on weekend afternoons
  • Insider advice: Visit in the early morning or late afternoon to escape tour groups and enjoy a more intimate experience

Exploring the Medieval Streets

Beyond the Hospices, Beaune’s historic center features a labyrinth of cobblestone streets lined with half-timbered houses, elegant mansions, and charming shops. Start your exploration at Place Carnot, the main square where locals gather at cafés, and the weekly market (held Saturday mornings) fills the area with colorful stalls selling regional products.

Rue de Lorraine and Rue d’Alsace provide excellent shopping opportunities, featuring everything from gourmet food stores to artisan workshops. Be sure to explore Rue Maizières, one of the most picturesque streets, known for its perfectly preserved medieval architecture. The Place Monge, adorned with Renaissance buildings, offers a scenic spot to relax and people-watch at a local café.

Tip for photographers: The early morning light (around 7-8 am) creates a magical atmosphere in the old town before the shops open and tourists arrive. This is the ideal time to capture the authentic character of Beaune’s historic streets.

Beaune

Religious Landmarks: Gothic Splendor and Sacred Art

Basilica of Notre-Dame (Collégiale Notre-Dame)

The Basilica of Notre-Dame, a Romanesque church completed in the mid-12th century, is another architectural treasure in Beaune. Just a short walk from the Hospices, this remarkable building showcases a blend of Romanesque and Gothic elements, reflecting its extensive construction period.

Upon entering, visitors are immediately captivated by the intricate stained glass windows that bathe the altar in colorful light. Some of these windows date back to the 16th century and convey biblical stories through vibrant imagery. The interior features detailed woodwork and houses one of Burgundy’s most impressive pipe organs, which continues to fill the space with magnificent sound during concerts and services.

Among the basilica’s most valuable treasures are the renowned 15th-century tapestries adorning the walls and the notable 12th-century Black Madonna statue. Art historians particularly appreciate the series of 15th-century tapestries depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.

Practical Information:

  • Hours: Open daily 9 am-7 pm (April-October), 9 am-6 pm (November-March)
  • Admission: Free (donations appreciated)
  • Tip: Check if an organ concert is scheduled during your visit—these typically occur on Sunday afternoons in the summer months.
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Defensive Fortifications: Walking in Medieval Footsteps

Beaune’s Ramparts (Remparts de Beaune)

For a unique perspective on Beaune’s history and layout, take a leisurely stroll along the well-preserved medieval ramparts. These defensive walls once completely encircled the town, protecting it from invaders. Today, about two-thirds of the original fortifications remain intact, offering a pleasant walking route with spectacular views of both the historic center and the surrounding vineyards.

The full circuit takes approximately one hour at a relaxed pace, though you can easily access or exit the route at several points if you prefer a shorter walk. Along the way, you’ll encounter several towers and two original gates that once controlled access to the city.

Key highlights include:

  • Porte Rue de Lorraine: This is one of the two remaining gates from the original fortifications, now featuring a small museum that highlights the history of Beaune’s defenses.
  • Tour Philippe le Bon (Philip the Good Tower): Named after Duke Philip III (Philip the Good), this 15th-century tower offers panoramic views from its summit.
  • Tour de l’Horloge (Clock Tower): An iconic structure, the tower showcases a large clock face that dates back to 1443.

Practical Advice:

  • Best Time: Late afternoon offers the most flattering light for photographing both the town and its surrounding landscape.
  • Footwear: Wear comfortable shoes, as some parts of the path are uneven.
  • Access Points: Main entrance points are located near Porte Saint-Nicolas and Porte Madeleine.

Beaune

Porte Saint-Nicolas

The impressive Porte Saint-Nicolas (Saint Nicholas Gate) serves as the northern entrance to Beaune. This striking stone archway, once a fortified gate, played a critical role in the town’s defenses. Over the years, it has welcomed notable figures such as Henri II and Louis XIV during grand ceremonies.

Visitors can walk through the archway and admire its architectural details, which reflect its historical significance, while imagining the important events that occurred here centuries ago.

Wine Culture: Exploring Burgundy’s Liquid Treasure

Wine Museum (Musée du Vin)

Located in the former Hotel of the Dukes of Burgundy, the Wine Museum (Musée du Vin) offers an engaging exploration of Burgundy’s winemaking heritage. The museum delves into the region’s rich history of viticulture, featuring interactive exhibits, including an aroma station where visitors can identify various wine scents.

As you navigate through the museum, you’ll encounter antique wine presses and traditional winemaking tools that illustrate the evolution of the process over centuries. Informative displays with English translations facilitate easy navigation through the exhibition.

Practical Information:

  • Hours: Open daily from 10 AM to 6 PM (April to October) and from 10 AM to 5 PM (November to March).
  • Admission: €10 for adults, €5 for students, and free for children under 12.
  • Insider Tip: The admission ticket includes a tasting of three regional wines at the end of your visit.

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Famous Wine Cellars

Beaune is home to several renowned wine merchants who preserve generations of winemaking traditions in their atmospheric cellars. These establishments offer tours and tastings that provide insight into Burgundy’s wine production methods and the concept of “terroir,” which explains how specific soil, climate, and topography influence wine characteristics.

Patriarche Père & Fils: This is the largest wine cellar in Burgundy, featuring nearly 3 miles of tunnels that store over 2 million bottles. Visitors can enjoy tastings in the atmospheric vaults of a spacious 13th-century building.

Maison Joseph Drouhin: This prestigious merchant combines history with wine tasting, known especially for its elegant Premier and Grand Cru wines. Part of their cellars is located in the former Parliament building of Burgundy.

Louis Jadot: Founded in 1859, this historic winemaker offers visitors insights into traditional winemaking methods and showcases equipment such as the rails used for moving fermentation vats.

Practical Advice:

  • Reservations: Book cellar tours at least 1-2 days in advance during peak season.
  • Cost: Most tours range from €15-30, depending on the number and quality of wines tasted.
  • Timing: Allow 1-2 hours for each cellar visit.
  • Transport Tip: If you plan to visit multiple cellars, consider hiring a local driver (around €150-200 for half a day) to avoid drinking and driving concerns.

Maison des Climats

The Maison des Climats (House of the Climats) is a visitor center dedicated to Burgundy’s unique vineyard parcels known as “climats.” This innovative center offers an augmented reality journey through the region’s winemaking culture.

With just a few clicks, you can explore the evolution of Burgundy’s vineyards over the centuries, covering everything from ancient soils to the influence of dukes and religious orders. Detailed exhibits on the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune vineyards feature visual and audio landscapes that bring the legendary terroir to life.

Practical Information:

  • Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10 am-6 pm.
  • Admission: €8 for adults, free for children under 12.
  • Insider Tip: The interactive tablet tour (included in the price) offers information in multiple languages.

Beaune

Gastronomic Delights: Savoring Burgundian Flavors

Beaune Markets

No visit to Beaune is complete without experiencing its vibrant market scene. The Saturday morning market (Le Marché de Beaune) is particularly impressive, filling the streets around Place de la Halle with colorful stalls selling fresh fruits, vegetables, local cheeses, and gourmet meat specialties.

As you stroll through the market, you’ll find mountains of gleaming olives, appetizing pâtés, and tempting breads that would lure even the most disciplined dieter. This is not a tourist trap but a genuine gathering place for Burgundy locals. Take the opportunity to gather ingredients for a picnic among the vineyards, or simply sample products as you browse.

Market Highlights:

  • Location: Place de la Halle and surrounding streets.
  • Hours: Saturday 8 am-1 pm (year-round).

Must-Try Products: Epoisses cheese (notoriously pungent but delicious), jambon persillé (parsley ham), and pain d’épices (spice bread).

  • Tip: Arrive before 10 a.m. for the best selection and fewer crowds.

Burgundian Cuisine

Burgundian cuisine is known for its rich, hearty dishes that pair beautifully with the region’s robust wines. When in Beaune, be sure to try these traditional specialties:

  • Boeuf Bourguignon: A classic beef stew slow-cooked in red wine with mushrooms and lardons.
  • Coq au Vin: Chicken braised with wine, mushrooms, and garlic.
  • Escargots de Bourgogne: Snails prepared with garlic butter and parsley.
  • Jambon Persillé: A terrine of ham with parsley.
  • Oeufs en Meurette: Poached eggs in a red wine sauce with bacon and onions.
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Recommended Restaurants

L’Hostellerie de Levernois: Located about 5 km from central Beaune, this Michelin-starred restaurant showcases exceptional cuisine with local ingredients in a beautiful park setting. The tasting menu (€120-150) offers an unforgettable culinary journey through the flavors of Burgundy. Reservations are essential.

Le Bistro de l’Hôtel: Situated in central Beaune, this elegant bistro serves refined versions of classic Burgundian dishes. The wine list features over 30 local wines available by the glass. Main courses range from €25-40. Reservations should be made at least one day in advance.

Loiseau des Vignes: Continuing the legacy of chef Bernard Loiseau, this Michelin-starred restaurant is known for its innovative interpretations of classic Burgundian flavors. The summer terrace is particularly inviting. Tasting menus range from €65-95, with à la carte options available.

Budget Option: La Buissonnière offers excellent value with a three-course lunch menu for €19.50, featuring seasonal ingredients and traditional recipes.

Insider Tip: Many restaurants offer excellent fixed-price lunch menus (€20-35), which are significantly cheaper than dinner prices for similar quality. Consider making lunch your main meal for the best value.

Beaune

Exploring Beaune’s Surroundings: Beyond the Town Walls

Vineyard Cycling Routes

Beaune offers fantastic routes to test your cycling skills. Starting at the Port de Savigny (Savigny Gate), the Voie des Vignes (Vineyard Way) is a car-free cycling route where you can rent bikes to explore this beautiful path through vineyards, pause for photos, and enjoy a picnic among the vines.

You’ll appreciate the unique terroir that shapes the region’s wines and experience the diverse microclimates that influence wine production. This journey allows you to taste subtle differences in grapes and learn about the winemaking process, enriching your understanding of the town.

Practical Information:

  • Bike Rental: Available from several shops in town, typically costing around €20-25 per day.
  • Route Length: The main route is approximately 22 km (14 miles) but can be shortened.
  • Difficulty: Mostly flat with occasional gentle hills.
  • Recommended Timing: Start in the morning to avoid the afternoon heat in summer.

Château de Savigny-lès-Beaune

Just a short drive from Beaune, Château de Savigny-lès-Beaune is a fascinating destination built in 1340. The castle houses an impressive collection of vintage cars, motorcycles, and even aircraft.

Explore the beautifully restored rooms and take time to stroll through the lush gardens filled with vibrant flowers. You’ll encounter numerous historic racing cars, along with fire engines and tractors, making this venue a delight for automobile enthusiasts. Additionally, you can enjoy wine tasting at the restaurant located on the estate.

Practical Information:

  • Hours: Open daily from 9 am to 5 pm (April to October), weekends only in winter.
  • Admission: €12 for adults, €6 for children.
  • Distance from Beaune: 5 km (10-minute drive).

Dijon Day Trip

Consider taking a day trip to Dijon, located approximately 40 minutes from Beaune by car or train (tickets €8-12 each way). Begin your visit at Place de la Libération—a vibrant square surrounded by charming cafés and historic buildings.

From there, follow the Owl Trail to the stunning Palais des Ducs, which houses the Fine Arts Museum. While exploring, don’t miss the covered market at Les Halles, where you can sample local delicacies like jambon persillé and escargots.

You can also visit the 13th-century Notre-Dame Church to rub the lucky owl for a wish. For breathtaking views, climb the 15th-century Tour Philippe le Bon.

Time-Saving Tip: The tourist office provides a self-guided tour map that efficiently covers all major attractions in about 3 hours.

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Hot Air Balloon Rides

For an unforgettable perspective, consider a hot air balloon ride over Beaune. You’ll see the beautiful Burgundy region from above, floating over lush vineyards and historic castles.

Each flight offers a unique view of Beaune’s charming streets and picturesque countryside. The views of the town, especially its famous glazed tile roofs, are breathtaking. Capture incredible photos of this idyllic landscape while enjoying the thrill of soaring over one of France’s most enchanting regions.

Practical Information:

  • Cost: Approximately €200-250 per person.
  • Duration: 3-4 hours total (1 hour in the air).
  • Booking: Reserve at least one week in advance.
  • Season: Available from April through October, weather permitting.
  • Tip: Early morning flights provide the most stable air conditions and stunning light.

Beaune

Seasonal Events: Celebrating Beaune’s Heritage

Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction

If you’re visiting Beaune on the third Sunday of November, you can witness the renowned Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction. This highly anticipated charity event attracts wine professionals from around the globe and features vintages that are freshly harvested, only a few weeks old.

Although the main auction is geared towards professionals, visitors can relish the vibrant atmosphere, which includes wine tastings held in Beaune’s underground cellars and vineyard estates. For several days, a food market usually operates, showcasing local wines, charcuterie, and regional delicacies.

You’ll also enjoy lively folklore groups parading through the streets, contributing to the festive ambiance.

Practical advice:

  • Accommodation: Book at least 6 months in advance, as the town fills up quickly.
  • Events: Most tastings and related events require tickets, which can be purchased through the tourist office.
  • Costs: Anticipate a 30-50% price increase in hotel rates during this weekend.
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Festival of Light (Chemin de Lumière)

From June through September, Beaune’s Chemin de Lumière (Path of Light) project illuminates the town with breathtaking light displays. As night falls, you can stroll along lit paths that highlight significant sites like the Hôtel-Dieu and Musée du Vin.

These projections celebrate Beaune’s history, showcasing its role as Burgundy’s capital until 1479. You’ll encounter dynamic scenes, including Duke Philip the Good and his achievements, brought to life through over 150 colorful illuminations that change with the seasons.

Viewing information:

  • Times: Shows begin at nightfall (around 9:30-10pm in summer).
  • Cost: Free.
  • Route: Maps are available at the tourist office.
  • Tip: Dine early at 7pm to ensure you finish in time for the light show.

Beaune

Practical Information: Planning Your Visit

Where to Stay

Luxury: Hôtel Le Cep (€200-350/night) is a 5-star hotel housed in a 16th-century building, featuring a courtyard garden, spa, and excellent restaurant. Located in the heart of town, it provides exceptional service and authentic character.

Mid-range: Hôtel de la Poste (€120-180/night) is set in a former coaching inn with comfortable rooms and a traditional restaurant. Its central location is perfect for exploring on foot.

Budget: Ibis Beaune Centre (€70-110/night) offers clean, modern rooms just a 7-minute walk from the historic center. Though it lacks character, it provides reliable comfort and free parking.

Insider advice: Book accommodations 3-4 months in advance for summer visits and at least 6 months ahead for the November wine auction weekend.

Transportation in Beaune

Beaune’s compact size makes it ideal for exploring on foot, with most attractions located within a 15-minute walk from the center. To visit the surrounding vineyards, consider the following options:

  • Guided tours: Several companies offer half- or full-day wine tours (€75-150), which include transportation and tastings at 2-4 wineries.
  • Taxi: Local taxis can be arranged for vineyard visits, costing approximately €25-30 for nearby locations.
  • Bicycle: Rent bicycles to explore nearby vineyards via dedicated cycling paths, with rates around €20-25 per day.
  • Self-drive: Rental cars are available from €50 per day, but be mindful that drink-driving laws are strictly enforced.

Beaune offers a perfect blend of history, wine culture, and gastronomy in an easily walkable setting. The town’s authentic charm and relaxed atmosphere provide an ideal introduction to the Burgundian way of life.

With attractions ranging from the magnificent Hospices de Beaune to atmospheric wine cellars and exceptional restaurants, this compact town delivers a comprehensive French experience without the crowds found in more famous destinations. Whether you’re a wine enthusiast, history lover, or culinary traveler, Beaune offers outstanding value and authentic experiences that capture the essence of Burgundy’s unique heritage.

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