Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence is one of the hidden gems of Southern France, blending elegance, historical heritage, and an authentic Provençal lifestyle. This enchanting city, famous for its stunning fountains and the unique light that inspired great artists like Paul Cézanne, offers travelers a unique glimpse into the Southern French way of life, complemented by its culinary delights.

As you stroll through the ancient stone alleys of Aix-en-Provence, time seems to stand still. The ochre-colored houses, small shaded squares, traditional cafés, and vibrant markets create an atmosphere that is hard to replicate elsewhere. The city harmoniously weaves together the charm of its past with a lively contemporary culture, thanks in part to its large student population that injects youthful energy into the streets.

Unlike larger cities and crowded tourist hotspots, Aix-en-Provence provides the opportunity to experience an authentic French lifestyle—enjoy leisurely meals in charming squares, wander through small art galleries, and admire the impressive architecture that has been meticulously preserved over the centuries.

Main Attractions

Cours Mirabeau

A visit to Aix-en-Provence would be incomplete without a stroll down the renowned Cours Mirabeau. This grand boulevard, stretching approximately 440 meters, serves as the lifeblood of the city and demarcates the boundary between the old town and the Baroque Mazarin district. Established in the 17th century around 1650 on the site of the southern city wall, Cours Mirabeau has become a symbol of Aix-en-Provence.

Shaded by a row of majestic plane trees, the boulevard offers a pleasant refuge from the hot summer sun. Lined with historic cafés, elegant shops, and impressive mansions dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries, it exudes a timeless charm. Although the oldest café, “Les Deux Lions,” which opened in 1792, tragically burned down a few years ago, it is slated to reopen in 2025.

At the southern end of the boulevard stands the city’s most famous fountain, La Rotonde, adorned with 12 lions and 6 swans, topped by three allegorical statues representing the three largest cities of Provence: Aix, Marseille, and Avignon. At the northern end, you will encounter the Fountain of King René, dedicated to the 15th-century Duke of Provence, René of Anjou.

On market days—particularly Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings—the boulevard comes alive with stalls selling textiles and clothing. A walk along Cours Mirabeau is the perfect way to kick off your visit to Aix-en-Provence, allowing you to soak in the city’s unique atmosphere while providing a convenient orientation point for the rest of your exploration.

Fountains of Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence is famously known as the “city of a thousand fountains,” although there are actually around 27 active public fountains. These fountains are a vital part of the city’s urban landscape and history, reflecting its Latin origins—the name “Aquae Sextiae,” given by the Romans, refers to the hot and cold springs scattered throughout the area.

The most notable fountain is La Rotonde, but there are several others worth exploring:

• The Moss Fountain (Fontaine Moussue), situated in the center of Cours Mirabeau, is a distinct fountain constructed in 1667. Its water remains warm at approximately 18 degrees Celsius throughout the year, and the moss that grows on it is attributed to the mineral composition of the water. 
• The Four Dolphins Fountain (Fontaine des Quatre-Dauphins) is located in a square of the same name and is a Baroque masterpiece, also built in 1667. Adorned with four sculpted dolphins, it is regarded as one of the city’s most elegant fountains. 
• The Albertas Fountain (Fontaine d’Albertas) is found in a square considered to be one of the most beautiful and refined in Aix, boasting a distinct Parisian touch. Completed between 1742 and 1746, it exemplifies the late Baroque style. 

Exploring the various fountains of Aix-en-Provence is a delightful way to discover the city. The local tourism office offers a self-guided walking tour that features 22 important fountains, and turning this tour into a game—seeing how many fountains you can find—can be especially enjoyable, particularly for families with children.

The Old Town (Vieil Aix)

The old town of Aix-en-Provence is a charming maze of narrow alleys, picturesque squares, and historic buildings. Here, you can truly experience the magic of Provence and connect with the city’s rich history.

As you stroll along the stone-paved streets, you’ll be captivated by houses painted in shades of ochre and soft pink, thoughtfully designed doors, and windows adorned with colorful wooden shutters. The old town is organized in a grid pattern, with streets arranged in a fairly orderly manner, yet it retains an intimate and mysterious atmosphere.

A key focal point in the old town is the Town Hall (Hôtel de Ville), built in 1670. Its clock tower, constructed earlier in 1510, is one of the most recognizable symbols of Aix-en-Provence. The building features an impressive front gateway, and it is also worth a visit to the beautiful inner courtyard.

Place d’Albertas is undeniably one of the most beautiful squares in the city. Constructed in the 18th century, its design strongly resembles the elegant squares of Paris. The buildings that enclose the square, along with the central fountain, create a scene reminiscent of a painting, leading many visitors to remark that it feels like a movie set.

Another square worth exploring is Place des Cardeurs, which is bordered by charming restaurants and bistros. This spot is ideal for enjoying lunch or dinner in a genuine Provençal atmosphere, all under the shade of ancient trees.

A tour of the old town is essentially a journey through time, offering a glimpse of Aix-en-Provence as it was centuries ago. It’s recommended to allocate at least half a day for leisurely wandering through its streets, exploring small shops and art galleries, and pausing at a quaint café to soak in the unique ambiance.

Museums and Artistic Heritage

Granet Museum (Musée Granet)

The Granet Museum is a significant cultural institution in Aix-en-Provence, housed in a historic 18th-century building that was originally a monastery. It is named after the painter François Marius Granet, who bequeathed his private art collection to the city.

The museum boasts an impressive collection of around 750 artworks, representing several centuries of art history. Within the permanent collection, you can find pieces by renowned artists such as Ingres, Rembrandt, and, notably, Paul Cézanne, the city’s most famous native. One of the museum’s highlights is “The Bathers” (Les Baigneurs) by Cézanne, created around 1895.

In addition to works by world-famous artists, the museum also features a remarkable collection of local Provençal art, providing visitors with insight into the region’s unique artistic tradition. Recently, the museum has expanded its collection to include modern and contemporary art, showcasing works by artists like Picasso and others.

An entrance ticket to the Granet Museum also grants access to an additional venue, Granet XXe, located in a former 17th-century church just a short walk from the main museum. This venue focuses on 20th-century art and displays works by artists such as Picasso and Dubuffet, along with rotating exhibitions. The building itself is a work of art, and the blend of ancient architecture with modern pieces creates a unique and moving experience.

Paul Cézanne’s Studio (Atelier de Paul Cézanne)

Paul Cézanne, widely regarded as the father of modern art, was born, lived, and worked in Aix-en-Provence, and his influence is still evident in the city today. One of the must-see sites for art lovers is his studio, conveniently located a short walk from the city center.

The studio, known as “Atelier” in French, is situated on Lauves Street and served as Cézanne’s workspace during the last six years of his life. Here, he produced a significant portion of his later, influential works. What makes this place remarkable is that it has been preserved nearly unchanged since Cézanne’s death in 1906—it’s as if the great artist could return at any moment.

Visitors can see Cézanne’s original equipment, including his palette, brushes, objects used for still-life paintings, and even his coat, which still hangs on the wall. The studio’s large windows offer a stunning view of Mont Sainte-Victoire, a central subject in many of Cézanne’s paintings.

A visit to Cézanne’s studio provides a unique opportunity to step into the world of the great artist, offering insight into the conditions under which he created his masterpieces. Because the studio is often busy with visitors, it is highly recommended to book tickets in advance. Additionally, the garden surrounding the studio, where Cézanne painted extensively, is open for exploration.

For those looking to deepen their understanding of Cézanne, the Aix-en-Provence Tourism Office offers a self-guided walking tour that highlights significant locations in the artist’s life throughout the city.

Saint-Sauveur Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur)

Saint-Sauveur Cathedral is one of the most important historical buildings in Aix-en-Provence, offering an impressive experience that blends architecture, art, and history. Located in the heart of the old town, near the Faculty of Political Science, the cathedral showcases a fascinating mix of architectural styles.

From the outside, the cathedral may appear relatively small, but its interior impresses with its size and artistic richness. Originally built on the foundations of an ancient Roman forum, the cathedral has undergone numerous expansions and renovations over the years, resulting in a unique combination of Romanesque, Gothic, and Neo-Gothic styles.

One of the cathedral’s most interesting features is the Baptistery, an ancient baptism hall considered one of the oldest in France. This octagonal structure, built in the 5th century on the ruins of a Roman building, features Corinthian columns sourced from ancient Roman sites.

Inside the cathedral, visitors can find numerous artistic treasures, including the famous 15th-century triptych “The Burning Bush” (Le Buisson Ardent) painted by Nicolas Froment, alongside an impressive 18th-century organ that is regarded as one of the most important organs in southern France.

Behind the cathedral lies the Cloister Garden (Le Cloître), which served the monks during the Middle Ages. Surrounded by decorated columns, this garden provides a serene retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle.

The cathedral is open to visitors at no charge, though limited hours may apply during religious ceremonies. It is advisable to allocate at least an hour to explore the cathedral and its surroundings to fully appreciate its architectural and artistic richness.

Gastronomic Attractions

Food Market and Local Cuisine

A visit to the daily food market in Aix-en-Provence is one of the most delightful experiences in the city. Taking place every morning (except Sunday, when a smaller market is held), this market is a true feast for the senses, showcasing an abundance of fresh, local products.

Here, you can find everything from seasonal fruits and vegetables to local cheeses, olives, traditional spreads, fragrant herbs, sausages, meats, fresh fish, and seafood, among many other items that highlight the culinary diversity of Provence. The vibrant colors, enticing aromas, and delicious tastes create an unforgettable experience.

What makes the market special is the opportunity to engage directly with the producers and farmers, many of whom have worked on the same family farms for generations. Even if you don’t plan to cook, it’s worthwhile to purchase a few items for a picnic or to enjoy in your hotel room.

Calisson – The Traditional Sweet of Aix

It’s impossible to discuss Aix-en-Provence without mentioning the Calisson, the traditional almond candy that has become a symbol of the city. This almond-shaped confection is made from a paste of candied fruits (primarily melon and orange) and ground almonds, all covered with a white sugar coating.

According to legend, the Calisson originated during the wedding of King René of Anjou to Marie de Bourbon-Anjou in 1473. The bride, known for her gloomy disposition, smiled for the first time upon tasting the new candy, exclaiming enthusiastically, “Di Calisson!” (from Latin: “small and sweet”).

Today, the Calisson is an integral part of Aix-en-Provence’s tradition, celebrated annually with the “Blessing of the Calisson” ceremony on the first of September. It is also considered one of the 13 traditional desserts of Christmas in Provence.

One of the most renowned bakeries producing Calissons is Béchard, located on Cours Mirabeau. Operating since 1870, it is celebrated as one of the best in the city, also offering exquisite pastries and breakfast baked goods. A box of Calissons makes for the perfect souvenir from your visit to Aix-en-Provence.

Recommended Restaurants and Cafés

Aix-en-Provence is a paradise for food lovers, boasting a wealth of restaurants, bistros, and cafés that offer diverse culinary experiences. Here are some recommendations for places worth visiting:

• La Bouche à Oreille (“Word of Mouth”) is a favorite among locals and tourists alike, known for serving traditional Provençal dishes with a modern twist. The restaurant is especially renowned for its frog dish, considered one of the best in the area. Housed in an ancient building in the city center, the warm and inviting atmosphere enhances the dining experience. It’s advisable to arrive early or make a reservation, as the restaurant tends to fill up quickly. 
• Le Petit Verdot is a small, intimate boutique restaurant that specializes in local wines and shareable small plates. The menu changes with the seasons based on the availability of fresh ingredients, and the dishes are presented with great care and aesthetic appeal. 
• Café des Deux Garçons, a historic café on Cours Mirabeau since 1792, has been a popular meeting spot for notable figures such as Paul Cézanne and Emile Zola. After extensive renovations following a fire, the café retains its classic charm, making it an ideal place for breakfast or afternoon coffee while watching the vibrant city life unfold on the boulevard. 
• Place des Cardeurs is another hotspot for food enthusiasts, featuring a variety of restaurants and bistros that offer local cuisine at reasonable prices. During summer evenings, the square is lively with outdoor tables, creating a particularly festive atmosphere. 

For those with a sweet tooth, in addition to Calissons, the local ice cream shops are worth a visit. They offer unique flavors such as lavender, rosemary, and honey—each capturing the tastes and scents of Provence.

Shopping and Souvenirs

Unique Boutiques in the Old Town

Aix-en-Provence is also a haven for shopping enthusiasts, especially for those in search of unique items. The old town is brimming with charming boutiques that offer a wide range of products, from local fashion to home decor, art, and souvenirs.

One of the prime shopping areas is the old town district, where numerous boutique shops showcase unique clothing and accessories that go beyond the typical brands found in most cities. Many local designers feature their creations in these shops, providing special items at relatively reasonable prices.

Art lovers should take the opportunity to explore the small galleries scattered throughout the old town. Many of these galleries exhibit works by local artists and offer original pieces that make for perfect souvenirs from your visit to Aix-en-Provence.

If you’re in search of more familiar international brands, make your way to the area near the tourism office. There, you’ll discover well-known fashion retailers, small department stores, and specialty shops offering cosmetic products and accessories.

Soap and Lavender Products – The Perfect Souvenirs

One of the most popular souvenirs from Aix-en-Provence is the local soap. Provence is renowned for its fragrant soaps, crafted using traditional methods and enriched with natural oils such as olive oil, along with extracts from local plants like lavender, rosemary, and mimosa.

Throughout the old town, you’ll find numerous shops specializing in soaps and natural cosmetic products. One highly recommended shop is L’Occitane en Provence, which has evolved into an international brand but is rooted in the Provence region. This shop features a wide variety of products, including soaps, creams, essential oils, and perfumes, all made from natural ingredients sourced locally.

Another noteworthy shop is Savonnerie Marius Fabre, a family-owned business dedicated to producing traditional Marseille soap. Their soaps, crafted from olive oil, are made through methods that have remained largely unchanged since the 19th century.

In addition to soaps, lavender-related products make for excellent souvenirs, as the purple flower is emblematic of Provence. You’ll find fragrant lavender sachets, essential oils, lavender tea blends, lavender honey, and even lavender-infused foods like cookies and chocolates.

It’s important to note that while lavender is a popular souvenir, the blooming fields are primarily vibrant during June and July. If you plan to visit Aix-en-Provence during this season, consider taking a day trip to the nearby lavender fields, which offer breathtaking views and stunning landscapes.

Recommended 3-Day Itinerary in Aix-en-Provence

Day 1: Exploring the City Center

Morning:

Begin your day with breakfast at a café on Cours Mirabeau. If you’re visiting on Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday, take advantage of the morning market along the boulevard. After breakfast, stroll along the boulevard and admire the impressive fountains, particularly La Rotonde at the southern end.

Noon:

Head to the old town and wander through its charming alleys. Enjoy lunch at one of the restaurants in Place des Cardeurs, where you can sample a variety of traditional Provençal dishes. After lunch, continue exploring the old town and be sure to visit the Town Hall and the clock tower.

Afternoon:

Visit Saint-Sauveur Cathedral and take time to explore the ancient Baptistery and the Cloister Garden. If you have extra time, browse the numerous boutique shops in the old town.

Evening:

Cap off your day with dinner at La Bouche à Oreille restaurant. Afterward, enjoy an evening stroll along the illuminated Cours Mirabeau, stopping for coffee or a drink at one of the cafés lining the boulevard.

Day 2: Art and Culture

Morning:

Start your day at Béchard bakery, where you can indulge in a light breakfast featuring the famous Calissons. Next, visit the Granet Museum, taking the time to explore its rich art collection, particularly the works of Paul Cézanne.

Noon:

Break for lunch in the beautiful Place d’Albertas, where you can photograph the stunning square and the central fountain. After lunch, proceed to Granet XXe, the museum’s wing dedicated to 20th-century art.

Afternoon:

Visit Paul Cézanne’s studio, but remember to book tickets in advance, as the space is small and visitor numbers are limited. After your tour, stroll around the neighborhood to see the landscapes that inspired Cézanne’s work.

Evening:

Enjoy dinner at one of the elegant restaurants in the Mazarin district. After your meal, take a walk around the neighborhood to admire the impressive 17th-century aristocratic houses.

Day 3: Tours and Gastronomy

Morning:

Start your day early with a visit to the daily food market. Gather ingredients for a picnic—cheeses, sausages, fresh bread, fruits, and local delicacies. Don’t forget to pick up some souvenirs like soaps, lavender products, and perhaps another box of Calissons for friends back home.

Day:

Take a wine tour in the vineyards surrounding Aix-en-Provence. Many companies offer half-day guided tours that include visits to two or three wineries, along with wine tastings. This is a wonderful way to experience the rural landscapes around Aix and savor the region’s fine wines.

Afternoon:

After returning from the wine tour, visit the monument of Joseph Sec and the charming modern art garden nearby. The “Résonance” display by artists Ichi and Ray is a unique modern sculpture that blends seamlessly into the garden.

Evening:

Conclude your visit to Aix-en-Provence with a festive dinner at one of the top restaurants in the old town. After your meal, take a leisurely walk through the illuminated city, and perhaps you’ll find a spot for one last glass of Provençal wine before bidding farewell to this beautiful city.

Tips for Travelers

Transportation and Getting Around

Aix-en-Provence is a relatively small city, making it easy to explore most central attractions on foot. Walking is the best way to experience the city, allowing you to discover hidden corners and immerse yourself in its unique atmosphere.

If you need public transportation, the city operates several small electric bus lines that cover the city center and nearby neighborhoods. These buses, known as “Diablines,” are especially convenient on hot days or for those who have difficulty walking.

If you plan to explore the rural areas surrounding Aix-en-Provence, consider renting a car. This will enable you to visit quaint villages, ancient monasteries, lavender fields (in season), and wineries situated away from the regular tourist routes.

For tourists arriving by car, note that most areas in the city center require paid parking. There are several public parking lots on the outskirts of the old town, and it’s advisable to use them instead of searching for parking in the narrow streets.

When to Visit?

Aix-en-Provence enjoys a pleasant Mediterranean climate with over 300 sunny days a year. Certain seasons offer a more enjoyable visit:

• Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) are ideal times to visit, characterized by pleasant temperatures, fewer tourists, and more reasonable accommodation prices. Spring brings beautiful blooms, while autumn is the harvest season, featuring many wine-related activities. 
• The summer months (July-August) are the peak tourist season and tend to be the hottest. If you choose to visit during summer, plan outdoor activities for the early morning or late afternoon, reserving the hotter parts of the day for museums and indoor attractions. Remember, if you want to see the lavender fields in bloom, June and July are the best months. 
• The winter months (December-February) are quieter, with fewer tourists and lower prices. Although temperatures are generally mild for a European winter (usually above freezing), keep in mind that some attractions may be closed or operate on reduced hours. 

Markets and Opening Hours

One important aspect to consider when planning your visit is the market days. The largest market occurs on Thursdays along Cours Mirabeau, with additional markets on Tuesdays and Saturdays. A daily food market is also held every morning in the old town.

If you enjoy markets, try to schedule your visit for a Thursday. Conversely, if you prefer to experience the city when it’s less crowded, it may be best to avoid the major market days.

Regarding opening hours, keep in mind that many businesses in Aix-en-Provence, particularly small shops and family-run restaurants, close on Sundays and sometimes on Mondays. Additionally, note the French siesta hours: many small businesses shut between 12:00 PM and 2:00 or 3:00 PM, while larger museums and tourist sites typically remain open continuously.

Aix-en-Provence is a city that perfectly combines history, culture, art, and cuisine. Whether you’re seeking a leisurely holiday wandering through ancient alleys and sipping coffee in cafés or are keen to explore the city’s history and art, Aix-en-Provence will not disappoint. With thoughtful planning, you can experience all this charming city has to offer and return home with lasting memories.