Shir Zamer – Expert on Japan First trip to Japan in 2014 My love for Japan started immediately when I got off the plane at Tokyo Airport. I didn't know what to expect and found myself living intermittently between Tokyo and Tel Aviv for 5 years, during which I got to know the local culture, the breathtaking landscapes, and the unique Japanese cities that are unlike any others. Japan is learning to open up to visitors from all over the world. This vast country, which rose from the harsh blow almost 80 years ago, has become an international economic and cultural power, and much more, while preserving its unique character. Japan combines in a way you won’t find anywhere else Western advancement, technology, capitalist economy, while obsessively maintaining its very unique culture. The culture manages to preserve all the wonderful and beautiful things in the world. Beyond that, Japan is a country of stunning landscapes, a pleasant climate for travel, rare environmental development in its beauty, and many other surprises. All of these captivated my heart long ago, and now I want to infect you with my love for Japan. In recent years, I have been guiding travelers and preparing them for their visit to Japan. My connection with the country has not ceased, and even today, I go to the country for at least two months a year. Currently, I am working on trips to Japan on a regular basis, including: Writing articles for various websites on Japan. Lectures on Japanese culture. Specializing in creating custom itineraries all over Japan. Dealing with suppliers and service providers in Japan for Israeli travelers.

Hiroshima is a vibrant city with a population exceeding one million, making it one of Japan’s largest cities and the biggest in the Chugoku region. While Hiroshima gained international recognition after August 6, 1945, today’s Hiroshima is a thriving modern metropolis, celebrated for its unique culinary traditions, breathtaking natural landscapes, and a relaxed atmosphere that often surprises first-time visitors.

Getting to Hiroshima

The city is well-connected to Japan’s excellent rail network. From Tokyo, the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen takes about 4 hours, while travelers from Osaka or Kyoto enjoy a much quicker journey of approximately 90 minutes. For international visitors, Hiroshima Airport provides links to major Asian cities, with shuttle buses to the city center taking around 45 minutes at a cost of ¥1,500.

Pro Tip: If you possess a Japan Rail Pass, both the Shinkansen ride and the ferry to Miyajima Island are included, making Hiroshima a cost-effective addition to your itinerary.

Getting Around

Hiroshima features Japan’s largest tram network, offering convenient transportation from Hiroshima Station to major attractions. The trams, endearingly referred to as “Hiroden,” create a charming retro atmosphere and are surprisingly easy to navigate.

Single rides within the city center cost between ¥180 and ¥240. However, the one-day “Visit Hiroshima” tourist pass (¥700) affords unlimited tram and bus travel, including routes to the Miyajima ferry terminal. The Hiroshima Sightseeing Loop Bus (Meipuru-pu) charges ¥200 per ride for adults (¥100 for children), with one-day unlimited ride tickets available for ¥400. These passes can be purchased at Hiroshima Station or the tourist information center.

Thanks to the compact city center, many attractions are within walking distance of one another, particularly around the Peace Park area.

Hiroshima

Must-See Attractions

Peace Memorial Park

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, located near the hypocenter of the atomic bombing, is a must-visit. The park’s trees, lawns, and walking paths create a reflective space that contrasts with the urban landscape of the nearby city center.

At the entrance stands the Atomic Dome (Genbaku Dome), one of the few buildings that partially survived the blast. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the dome serves as a powerful reminder of the destructive force of nuclear weapons and a tangible connection to Hiroshima’s unique past.

Within the park, visitors will find several monuments, notably the Memorial Cenotaph, which houses the names of over 200,000 victims who perished from the nuclear explosion and subsequent radiation. The Peace Flame, destined to burn until the world is free of nuclear weapons, is another poignant symbol.

The Peace Memorial Museum is open from 7:30 AM to 7:00 PM from March to July, 7:30 AM to 8:00 PM in August, 7:30 AM to 7:00 PM from September to November, and 7:30 AM to 6:00 PM from December to February, with the last admission 30 minutes before closing. Admission costs ¥200 for adults and ¥100 for high school students, while junior high school students and younger can enter for free. The museum is divided into two sections: the first focuses on human suffering, and the second documents historical events. The displayed personal artifacts can be deeply moving, reminding visitors not to take peace for granted.

Visitor’s Note: Be prepared for an emotionally intense experience. Consider visiting early in the day to allow time for reflection afterward instead of rushing off to your next destination.

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Miyajima Island (Itsukushima)

Located less than an hour from Hiroshima, Miyajima Island is one of Japan’s most popular tourist destinations and is recognized as one of the country’s three most scenic views.

To reach the island, take the Hiroden tram to Miyajimaguchi Station (30 minutes, ¥240), followed by a 10-minute ferry ride (¥200 one way, plus a ¥100 Miyajima Visitor Tax). Alternatively, you can take the JR Sanyo Line from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi Station (25 minutes, ¥420), then catch the JR ferry. Both the JR train and ferry are included with the Japan Rail Pass, though pass holders are still responsible for the ¥100 visitor tax.

The island’s main attraction is Itsukushima Shrine, famous for its giant torii gate that appears to float on the water during high tide. The shrine has been considered sacred for over 1,000 years and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Timing Tip: Be sure to check the tide schedule prior to your visit. High tide creates the “floating” effect, which is ideal for photos, while low tide allows you to walk right up to the gate. Most accommodations in Hiroshima provide tide tables for your planning convenience.

Wild deer roam the island and have become accustomed to humans. Unlike in Nara, feeding the deer is prohibited on Miyajima, but they make for charming photo companions.

For the best experience, consider an overnight stay on Miyajima. While accommodations can be pricey, staying overnight allows you to explore the island early in the morning before the crowds arrive. The difference between visiting Itsukushima Shrine at 8:00 AM versus 10:00 AM is significant—it’s a stark contrast in terms of crowd levels. Budget travelers can find rooms for as little as ¥3,000 per night in the Miyajimaguchi hotel area near the ferry terminal, letting you catch the earliest ferry at 6:25 AM and enjoy the island at its most tranquil.

Mount Misen, the highest mountain on the island, provides breathtaking views of the Inland Sea and the surrounding islands. You can take the Daisho-in hiking trail, which features interesting scenery and is less steep than other routes, or use the Miyajima Ropeway (¥1,800-2,000 round trip for adults, ¥1,100 one-way). The ropeway ride takes about 20 minutes and ends at the Shishi-iwa Observatory, with the mountain’s highest point approximately a 30-minute walk from there. Even with the ropeway, significant walking is required to reach the summit.

Hiroshima

Hiroshima Castle

Situated in the city center, Hiroshima Castle is an excellent example of a flatland castle, as opposed to one built on a hill or mountaintop. Constructed in 1589, it served as a base and a status symbol for local lords during Japan’s feudal era.

Though the original structure was destroyed by the atomic bomb, the main tower has been rebuilt using concrete with an attractive wooden facade. In recent years, several structures within the castle’s second defensive circle have also been reconstructed using original building methods and materials.

Inside the donjon (central keep), visitors will find a museum dedicated to the city’s and castle’s history, as well as to Japanese castles in general. The top floor offers a panoramic view of the city. Admission costs ¥370 for adults (discounts are available for seniors and students). The castle is open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM from March to November and from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM from December to February, with last admission 30 minutes before closing.

Historical Note: Look for the “A-bomb tree” on the castle grounds, which survived the bombing despite being only 740 meters from the hypocenter.

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Shukkeien Garden

Located near the castle, Shukkeien is a traditional landscape garden originally designed for the recreation of local lords. Its name translates to “shrunken-scenery garden,” aptly describing its design, where valleys, mountains, and forests are represented in miniature, creating an idealized landscape reminiscent of a poem.

Built in 1620, the garden centers around a pond with several tea houses offering visitors perfect views of the landscape. The best way to appreciate the miniature landscapes throughout the garden is by walking along the extensive network of paths.

The garden is particularly stunning during cherry blossom season (late March to early April) and autumn foliage (mid to late November). As of April 2025, admission costs ¥350 for adults, ¥150 for university students, and is free for elementary, middle, and high school students. The garden is open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM from March 16th to September 15th and from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM from September 16th to March 15th, with last admission 30 minutes before closing.

Orizuru Tower

For a modern perspective on Hiroshima, visit the Orizuru Tower, located adjacent to the Peace Park. The observation deck offers panoramic views of the Atomic Dome, Peace Park, and the city, with Hiroshima Castle visible in the distance.

What sets this tower apart is its cultural connection to paper cranes (orizuru), symbols of peace in Hiroshima. Visitors can learn to fold paper cranes, make a wish, and contribute them to a striking installation wall. For the adventurous, there’s even a slide that takes you from the observation floor down through the building!

Admission is ¥2,200 for adults, ¥1,400 for junior high and high school students, ¥900 for elementary school students, and ¥600 for children aged 4 to preschool, with an additional ¥100 for posting a paper crane on the Orizuru Wall. While the cost may seem high, the tower is practically empty on weekday mornings, providing a peaceful viewing experience. The tower generally operates from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, but hours may vary seasonally, so checking the official website is recommended. A café on-site offers a place to relax while enjoying the views.

Hiroshima

Hiroshima’s Culinary Treasures

Hiroshima’s food scene boasts distinctive regional specialties that shouldn’t be missed.

Hiroshima-Style Okonomiyaki

Often described as a cross between a pancake and pizza, okonomiyaki is a dish made of batter, cabbage, yakisoba, and various ingredients cooked on a large hot plate. Considered Hiroshima’s soul food, it’s enjoyed most prominently here and only rivals its popularity in Osaka.

Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki differs significantly from the Osaka-style found in many other parts of the country. Unlike Osaka-style, where ingredients are mixed together, Hiroshima-style uses only a thin layer of batter and is served on top of a generous portion of yakisoba noodles. This layered preparation gives the dish a more complex texture and flavor profile.

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Two top places to try okonomiyaki are:

  • Okonomimura: A three-story building in the city center dedicated entirely to okonomiyaki. Visitors can choose from several competing shops, each floor housing multiple small food stalls that cook okonomiyaki right in front of customers.
  • Ekimae Area: Located near Hiroshima Station, this area features numerous authentic shops popular with locals. Try Hen Kutya for firmer noodles and a slightly different preparation style.

The basic okonomiyaki, often called “soba nikutama” (including meat and eggs with soba noodles), costs around ¥810-900 at Okonomimura, with specialty versions featuring ingredients like oysters or cheese costing a bit more. Most meals with a drink average around ¥1,300. The experience of watching your meal being prepared layer by layer right before your eyes enhances the enjoyment.

Cash Warning: Many okonomiyaki restaurants in Hiroshima only accept cash, so be sure to bring sufficient yen.

Anago (Saltwater Eel) and Oysters

While visiting Miyajima Island, be sure to try anago (saltwater eel). Unlike unagi (freshwater eel), anago has a lighter, more delicate flavor and texture. Restaurants like Anago-Meshi Ueno specialize in serving anago donburi (eel rice bowl) for around ¥2,500.

Hiroshima is Japan’s largest oyster producer, and yakigaki (grilled oysters) can be found sizzling at street stalls throughout Miyajima Island. The enticing aroma of garlic oil and soy sauce wafting from the grill makes them irresistible, even for those who typically do not enjoy raw oysters.

Seasonal Tip: Oysters are at their best from October through March when they are plump and flavorful.

Hiroshima

Hiroshima Morning Sets

Hiroshima claims to be the birthplace of Japan’s “morning set” tradition—special breakfast menus served only in the morning hours. Originating in cafés, morning sets typically feature a Western-style influence.

Try Terani near the city center, which offers delicious egg sandwiches with coffee for about ¥600-800. The thick, toasted bread strikes the perfect balance of dense and soft yet crispy.

Momiji Manju Sweets

Miyajima specializes in unique sweets called momiji manju—small cakes shaped like Japanese maple leaves. Traditional fillings include red bean paste, while modern variations offer chocolate, custard, matcha, cheese, and even lemon flavors.

For a unique experience, try momiji manju in three different styles:

  1. Traditional soft cake versions at Yamada Sweets
    Shop.
  2. Modern “Momiji Kuro” (maple croissants) with various
    fillings.
  3. Fried tempura-style momiji (crispy on the outside with a warm filling
    inside).
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Evening Entertainment Districts

After a day of sightseeing, Hiroshima offers excellent dining and nightlife options.

The Nagarekawa area features numerous small districts filled with quality bars, restaurants, and izakaya (pub-restaurants). This large area is perfect for bar-hopping and trying a variety of local specialties.

For those staying near Hiroshima Station, the Ekinishi area (west of the station) has a concentration of small bars and eateries popular with locals. For a truly local experience, try shiru-nashi tantanmen at Musashibo—a sesame-based ramen topped with meat and served without soup, which becomes oddly addictive.

Beer enthusiasts should not miss Miyajima Brewery, where they can sample local craft beers with regional flavors. Hiroshima was a pioneer in sake brewing due to its soft water, which contrasts with most of Japan’s hard water and necessitated special techniques for producing quality sake.

Hiroshima

Day Trips from Hiroshima

Extend your Hiroshima stay with these rewarding day trips:

Shimanami Kaido Cycling Route

Take a train to Onomichi to access the Shimanami Kaido, a 70-kilometer route that stretches across island-spanning bridges. You can rent a bicycle for just ¥1,000 per day, allowing you to cycle across six islands and over several bridges while enjoying some of Japan’s most beautiful scenery. Consider making a detour to Okunoshima, famously known as “Rabbit Island” for the thousands of rabbits that thrive in its serene environment.

A one-way trip can be completed in a day if you start early enough. However, you also have the option to stay on the islands or return your bicycle at any designated return points along the route and take a ferry back to the mainland.

Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge

For the best view of the Inland Sea, visit Kurushima Kaikyo, one of the world’s longest suspension bridges, at sunset for a breathtaking vista.

Matsuyama and Shikoku Island

Alternatively, you can travel directly from Hiroshima to Matsuyama and continue your journey through the intriguing island of Shikoku, known for its Naruto whirlpools, vine rope bridges, and the eerie village where dolls outnumber the residents.

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Practical Information

Best Time to Visit

Hiroshima enjoys a mild climate compared to other regions in Japan. Spring (March-May) brings cherry blossoms, while autumn (October-November) showcases vibrant foliage. Summers can be hot and humid, but the close proximity to the sea often results in pleasant evenings.

Weather Tip: Hiroshima experiences less rain than many other Japanese cities, making it a great destination even during the rainy season (June).

Accommodation Recommendations

For most travelers, staying in the city center offers the best convenience with easy access to tram lines and the city’s vibrant nightlife.

Mid-range travelers should look for hotels around the Peace Park area for close proximity to major attractions. Budget travelers can find hostels and guesthouses near Hiroshima Station starting from ¥3,000 per night.

For an unforgettable experience, spend at least one night on Miyajima Island. Numerous traditional ryokan are available, providing an authentic Japanese experience. While they may be more expensive, staying overnight allows you to explore Miyajima early in the morning before the crowds arrive.

Money Matters

Unlike Tokyo and other major tourist destinations, many establishments in Hiroshima still operate on a cash-only basis, especially restaurants and smaller shops. It’s important to carry sufficient cash, particularly when visiting Miyajima Island.

ATMs are commonly available at convenience stores, but it’s best to withdraw cash at Hiroshima Station or other major centers before heading to more remote areas.

Hiroshima

Sample Itineraries

One-Day Itinerary

  • Morning: Peace Memorial Park and Museum (2-3 hours)
  • Lunch: Enjoy Okonomiyaki at Okonomimura
  • Afternoon: Take a ferry to Miyajima Island to visit Itsukushima Shrine
  • Evening: Return to Hiroshima for dinner in Nagarekawa

While it is possible to visit both Peace Park and Miyajima in one day, this schedule can limit your enjoyment of Hiroshima, causing you to miss much of what the city has to offer.

Two-Day Itinerary

Day 1:

  • Morning: Peace Memorial Park and Museum
  • Lunch: Local cafe for a Hiroshima morning set (available even in the afternoon)
  • Afternoon: Hiroshima Castle and Shukkeien Garden
  • Evening: Dinner featuring Okonomiyaki and explore Nagarekawa

Day 2:

  • Early Morning: Ferry to Miyajima (aim to arrive by 8:00 AM)
  • Morning: Visit Itsukushima Shrine before the crowds arrive
  • Lunch: Enjoy Anago or oysters on the island
  • Afternoon: Hike Mount Misen or explore the island’s shops
  • Evening: Return to Hiroshima or stay overnight on Miyajima
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Three-Day Itinerary

Consider adding a third day for a trip to the Shimanami Kaido cycling route or Matsuyama, depending on your interests in cycling, nature, or traditional Japanese culture.

Hiroshima offers a perfect blend of historical significance, natural beauty, and modern urban energy. While many visitors are drawn primarily by its historical importance, they often depart impressed by the city’s vibrant food scene, friendly locals, and stunning surroundings. By experiencing both the essential historical sites and the contemporary culture of Hiroshima, visitors gain a comprehensive understanding of this resilient and welcoming city.

Take the time to appreciate both the somber reflections at Peace Park and the delightful experience of enjoying a perfectly layered Okonomiyaki. Hiroshima deserves more than a rushed day trip; it rewards those who take the time to explore its many facets.

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