Bergamo

Forget overcrowded Venice or touristy Florence for a moment. Tucked away in Lombardy, just an hour from Milan, sits Bergamo – a city so stunning that French writer Stendhal called it “the most beautiful place on earth.” Yet somehow, it remains blissfully under the radar.

Here’s the thing about Bergamo: it’s actually two cities in one. The medieval Upper Town (Città Alta) perches dramatically on a hilltop, while the modern Lower Town (Città Bassa) sprawls below. This unique setup, combined with its UNESCO World Heritage status since 2017, makes it one of Italy’s most fascinating destinations that most travelers completely miss.

With around 120,000 residents and its own airport (Milan Bergamo), this isn’t some tiny village frozen in time. It’s a living, breathing city where medieval charm meets modern convenience – and where you can actually enjoy Italian culture without fighting crowds for every photo.

Getting There: Easier Than You Think

From Milan: Direct trains leave every hour from Milano Centrale to Bergamo station. The journey takes exactly 50 minutes, and tickets cost €6 one way. Pro tip: book online to avoid queues, especially during peak season.

The Famous Funicular: Once you reach Bergamo station, the real magic begins. The historic funicular railway, operating since 1887, connects the Lower City to the Upper City. The funicular uses the ATB zonal system – for travel within the city center (zone 00), you need a “One Zone” ticket. This ticket is valid for 75 minutes and can be purchased via contactless payment, ATB mobile app, or at ticket offices.

Insider’s Secret: The funicular gets absolutely packed during peak hours (10 AM – 2 PM and 5 PM – 8 PM), especially on weekends. Either arrive early morning or take the walking path alongside it. The 10-15 minute climb is manageable and offers great views you’d miss in the cable car.

Operating Hours: The funicular operates from 7:00 AM to midnight most days, with extended service until 1:20 AM on Thursdays and Fridays (during daylight saving time). From May 29, 2025, a Priority Pass for €24.50 will be available for those wanting to skip regular queues.

Alternative: If you’re staying overnight, many hotels in the Upper Town offer shuttle services. Worth asking when booking.

A Brief History Worth Knowing

Understanding Bergamo’s past makes visiting infinitely more interesting. This wasn’t always one city – it evolved through layers of conquest and cultural influence.

Starting as an Iron Age settlement, it became a Roman municipality before flourishing during the medieval period. Most of the stunning churches and palazzos you’ll see today date from this era. The Venetian Republic controlled it for centuries (hence all those winged lions you’ll spot), followed by the Austrian Empire, until it finally joined the Kingdom of Italy in 1859.

This complex history explains why Bergamo feels different from other Italian cities. Venetian architectural elements blend with Lombard traditions, creating something uniquely beautiful.

Lower Town: Don’t Just Rush Through

Most visitors beeline straight to the Upper Town, but the Lower City deserves at least an hour. Here’s what not to miss:

Porta Nuova Gates

These splendid neoclassical gates from 1870 guard the heart of the Lower City. They’re Instagram-worthy and mark the perfect starting point for exploration.

Piazza Vittorio Veneto & Tower of the Fallen

The massive Piazza Vittorio Veneto centers around the Tower of the Fallen (Torre dei Caduti), built in the 1920s to commemorate World War I casualties. At 45 meters high, it houses a small museum about Bergamo’s history and offers panoramic views over the city.

Cost: Museum entry €3, viewing deck €2 Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 10 AM-6 PM Pro tip: The views toward the Old Town from here are spectacular – perfect for understanding the city’s layout before heading up.

The Lower City also features several notable churches and civic buildings worth a quick look, especially if you’re interested in more recent Italian architecture.

Upper Town: Where the Magic Happens

The fortified hilltop Upper Town is where Bergamo truly shines. Narrow cobblestone streets wind between medieval buildings, creating an almost fairytale atmosphere. But don’t let the beauty fool you – this is still a living neighborhood where locals shop, eat, and go about their daily lives.

Piazza Vecchia: The Heart of It All

Built over the ancient Roman Forum, Piazza Vecchia is the main square of the Old Town. It’s small but perfectly proportioned, with historic buildings on each side creating an almost intimate atmosphere.

Palazzo della Ragione: Originally built in the 12th century, this medieval building has served as town hall, courthouse, theater, and gallery over the centuries. The Gothic structure sits on fine arches with space below to explore.

Palazzo Nuovo: Construction started in the 17th century but wasn’t completely finished until 1968 when the ornamental facade was completed. Today it houses an important historic library.

Contarini Fountain: In the middle of the piazza, decorated with the lions of Saint Mark – a clear sign of Bergamo’s Venetian history.

Insider’s tip: The restaurants around the piazza are convenient but touristy. For better prices and authentic food, venture into the side streets.

Civic Tower (Campanone): Views Worth the Climb

Attached to the Palazzo della Ragione, this 52.76-meter tower can be climbed for stunning views over the city. On clear days, you can see all the way to the Alps.

Cost: €5 for full admission, €3 reduced (residents, students up to 26, over 70, groups 15+), €1 for ages 11-17 Hours: Tuesday-Friday 10 AM-6 PM, Saturday-Sunday 10 AM-7 PM (closed Mondays) What to expect: 230 steps to the top or elevator access, plus a small archaeological museum at the base

The tower contains the largest bell in Lombardy, and at the base, you’ll find a small museum with fascinating rooms, a courtyard, and exhibits about Bergamo’s history.

Pro tip: Visit around sunset for the best light, but expect crowds. Early morning offers clearer views and fewer people.

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Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore: The Crown Jewel

This outstanding building, begun in 1137, is probably Bergamo’s highlight. Built in the Romanesque style, the entrance is guarded by two lions – a detail that immediately signals its importance.

The exterior is impressive, but the interior is absolutely breathtaking. The lavishly decorated space features Renaissance choir stalls, Baroque stucco work, and 16th-century tapestries. The frescoes alone are worth the visit.

Legend alert: There are two versions of the basilica’s origin story. One claims that in 1133, the Virgin Mary appeared in a dream to Giovanni da Scanzo, asking him to build a church where he would find snow on an August day. The other says citizens built it to thank the Virgin Mary for delivering them from drought, plague, and famine. Both stories add to the mystique.

Cost: €5 for non-residents, €2 reduced (ages 14-25, over 70), free for residents and children under 14 Hours: Monday-Saturday 9 AM-6 PM, Sunday 1:30 PM-6 PM Photography: Allowed but be respectful during services Special note: Lorenzo Lotto’s famous wooden inlays are only visible on public holidays or by written request

Colleoni Chapel: Attached Architectural Marvel

Connected to the Basilica, this chapel and mausoleum was built for Bartolomeo Colleoni, a Bergamo-born mercenary commander who led Venice’s armies across northern Italy.

The exquisitely decorated facade made of multi-colored inlaid marble is spectacular enough, but the interior is equally amazing with tombs and frescoes to admire.

Important note: Photography isn’t allowed inside, so take time to really absorb the details while you’re there.

Bergamo Cathedral: Often Overlooked, Shouldn’t Be

Dedicated to Saint Alexander, Bergamo’s patron saint, the cathedral was originally built in 1459. It’s been altered over the years and now sports a grand neoclassical facade with a dome added in 1889.

The interior is rather stunning, with a wonderfully decorated nave and soaring dome featuring gilded details and beautiful frescoes.

Cost: Free entry Best time: Early morning or late afternoon for the best light through the windows

Octagonal Baptistery

This unique building was constructed in 1340, dismantled in 1650, then saved and reconstructed in its present location in 1889. It’s a fascinating example of medieval architecture’s journey through time.

Castles and Fortifications: Bergamo’s Defensive Heritage

San Vigilio Castle: Views and Tranquility

This medieval fortress has protected the city since the 9th century. The ruins offer vast grounds to explore, with remnants of ancient defensive towers, casemates, and embrasures whispering tales of the past.

Getting there: Take the second funicular from the Upper Town (ATB One Zone ticket required) Cost: Free to explore the grounds Best time: Sunset – the views are absolutely magical

The castle offers breathtaking views stretching to Lake Como and the Orobie Alps. Unlike other tourist spots, it’s rarely crowded, making it perfect for a peaceful break after a day of sightseeing.

Pro tip: The funicular up to San Vigilio can have long waits in summer. Consider the walk if you’re feeling energetic – it’s about 20 minutes uphill but very scenic.

Rocca Museum: History and Panoramas

This 14th-century castle turned museum has an intriguing story dating back centuries. The climb up the tower offers striking panoramic views of Bergamo and its surroundings.

Cost: €3 entry Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 AM-1 PM and 2:30 PM-6 PM What to see: Exhibits about the city’s rich cultural heritage plus the serene garden outside

The museum focuses on the struggle for Italian Independence, making it particularly interesting for history buffs.

Venetian Walls: A UNESCO Marvel

These historic walls, crafted by the Venetians between 1561 and 1592, stretch for more than four kilometers around the entire Upper Town. They offer scenic views that will leave you breathless.

Walking the walls: Most of the fortifications can be walked around, offering constantly changing views of both the city and surrounding countryside.

Highlight: Porta San Giacomo is an impressive white marble gate and the perfect spot for photos. This was one of four historic entrances that used to welcome people from Milan into old Bergamo.

Insider’s secret: The walls are less crowded early morning or late afternoon. Bring water – there aren’t many shops along the route.

Food Experiences You Can’t Miss

Stracciatella Gelato: Taste History

La Marianna isn’t just any gelato shop – it’s where stracciatella flavor was invented. Since the 1940s, this pastry shop has been delighting visitors with this delectable frozen treat.

The story: In 1953, Tuscan migrants Oriana and Enrico Panattoni bought the shop. They served a soup called “La Stracciatella alla Romana” (broth with beaten egg). In 1961, Enrico had the genius idea of creating an ice cream that “tore itself up” (stracciare in Italian) and named it after the soup.

Picture creamy vanilla ice cream swirled with decadent shreds of dark chocolate – it’s Italy’s sophisticated answer to chocolate chip ice cream.

Cost: €2.50-4 depending on size Pro tip: Enjoy it on their beautiful green terrace. The outdoor seating area is often overlooked but offers a lovely break from sightseeing.

Il Fornaio: Pizza by the Slice, Roman Style

This place takes pizza to a whole new level with their “pizza al taglio” concept – a style born in Rome that’s all about enjoying pizza by the slice.

How it works: Grab a ticket at the door and wait your turn (it gets packed). When called, place your order and watch as they cut your pizza with scissors right before your eyes.

Pricing warning: They charge by weight, so those tempting slices topped with creamy burrata can quickly add up. However, the portions are absolutely huge, so it’s still great value.

Pro tip: The lunch rush (12:30-2 PM) is intense. Come earlier or later for a more relaxed experience.

Nessi: Sweet Bergamo Tradition

This pasticceria is famous for “Polenta e Osei,” an authentic Bergamo dessert that will change your perception of polenta forever.

What it is: A sponge cake filled with hazelnut cream and maraschino, covered with almond paste and chocolate. Nessi has been handmaking this delight since 1946.

Cost: €8-15 depending on size Sizes: Available in different sizes, perfect for sharing or taking home

Pro tip: They also make excellent coffee – order a cappuccino to go with your dessert.

Il Circolino: Dining with a Twist

Nestled within an old prison complex, this restaurant presents one of the most delightful dining experiences in Bergamo. The unique location and theme offer a one-of-a-kind experience that’s hard to find elsewhere.

What to expect: Delicious Italian cuisine in a charming ambiance steeped in history. The restaurant’s unique location creates a “crazy adventure” atmosphere that diners enthusiastically endorse.

Cost: €35-50 per person for dinner Reservation: Essential, especially on weekends

Practical Tips for Your Visit

Timing Your Trip

Minimum stay: Two nights recommended to fully appreciate both the Upper and Lower Towns Best seasons: April-June and September-October for pleasant weather and fewer crowds Avoid: August (hot and crowded) and January (many attractions close)

Getting Around

Funicular queues: Extremely long during peak season. Arrive early morning or take the walking path Comfortable shoes: Essential for cobblestone streets and hills Upper Town parking: Very limited and expensive (€2 per hour). Use Lower Town parking and take the funicular

Money-Saving Tips

Funicular tickets: Use ATB One Zone tickets (75-minute validity) for both funiculars and city buses Museum combo: Some attractions offer combined tickets – the Museum of Stories cumulative ticket costs €14 and is valid for 48 hours Dining: Side streets offer better prices than main squares Accommodation: Lower Town hotels are significantly cheaper than Upper Town

What to Watch Out For

Tourist traps: Restaurants right on Piazza Vecchia are overpriced Crowds: Summer weekends can be very busy Limited opening hours: Many attractions close for lunch (12:30-2:30 PM) Weather: Mountain weather can change quickly; bring layers

Photography Tips

Best views: Civic Tower, San Vigilio Castle, and Venetian Walls Golden hour: Sunset from the Upper Town is spectacular Restrictions: No photography inside Colleoni Chapel Instagram spots: Porta San Giacomo, Piazza Vecchia fountain.

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