Dijon

Dijon, the capital of Burgundy, is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its exquisite mustard, rich history, and culinary excellence. Located three hours from Paris and five hours from Geneva, this former seat of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy features a compact, walkable city center filled with medieval architecture and French elegance.

With its impressive 13th-century architectural treasures, vibrant cultural scene, and prime location in one of France’s renowned wine regions, Dijon is an ideal destination for a weekend getaway or a stopover. This guide will cover everything from the iconic Owl Trail to Burgundian cuisine and the surrounding wine country.

The Historic Heart of Dijon

Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy (Palais des Ducs de Bourgogne)

At the heart of Dijon stands the majestic Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, dating back to the 14th century and serving as the historic power center of the region. This architectural masterpiece houses the Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des Beaux-Arts), which is free to visit—an exceptional value considering the quality of its collections.

The museum features works ranging from ancient Egyptian artifacts to contemporary pieces, all displayed in beautifully preserved palace rooms. Plan to spend at least 2-3 hours here to fully appreciate both the art and the historic building. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 AM to 6:30 PM and is closed on Mondays.

Pro tip: Visit early on weekday mornings to avoid crowds, and don’t miss the ducal kitchens and the spectacular Salle des Gardes, which contains the ornate tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless.

Place François Rude

This lively square is the vibrant heart of Dijon and an ideal starting point for your exploration. Surrounded by medieval and Renaissance-era houses with their distinctive colorful tiled roofs, Place François Rude exemplifies Dijon’s architectural charm. Named after the famous sculptor born in Dijon, the square is dotted with cafés where you can enjoy some people-watching.

While you’re there, stop by Comptoir Des Colonies for a refreshing tea break. This cozy tea room offers delightful blends starting at €4 per cup, and you can even purchase some unique tea varieties to take home as souvenirs.

The Owl Trail (Le Parcours de la Chouette)

One of the most enjoyable ways to discover Dijon is by following the Owl Trail, a self-guided walking tour marked by small brass owl plaques embedded in the sidewalks. This clever tourist route connects approximately 22 significant landmarks throughout the historic center and takes about 2-3 hours to complete at a leisurely pace.

The owl became a symbol of Dijon after a small owl sculpture was carved into the exterior of Notre-Dame church in the 16th century. Local legend claims that touching this original owl sculpture with your left hand while making a wish brings good fortune. The sculpture is easily accessible on the church’s exterior wall.

You can purchase an Owl Trail guidebook from the Tourist Office for €3.50, which provides detailed information about each stop. Alternatively, you can download the free Dijon tourism app for a digital version that includes audio commentary.

Pro tip: The brass owl markers may be subtle and easy to overlook. Keep your eyes on the ground, as they typically indicate the direction you should walk next.

Architectural Treasures

Notre-Dame Church (Église Notre-Dame de Dijon)

This magnificent Gothic church, built in 1220, is one of Dijon’s most distinctive landmarks. Its western façade features an extraordinary array of 51 gargoyles, creating an otherworldly spectacle. The church’s remarkable exterior details have earned it recognition as one of the finest examples of Burgundian Gothic architecture.

Inside, visitors can find the famous Black Madonna statue, known as “Our Lady of Good Hope” (Notre-Dame de Bon-Espoir), which holds special significance for religious pilgrims. The beautiful stained glass windows cast colorful patterns throughout the interior, creating a magical atmosphere.

The church is open daily from 8:30 AM to 7 PM, with closures during mass times. Entry is free, though donations for maintenance are appreciated.

Saint-Bénigne Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne)

Dijon’s impressive cathedral was built between 1280 and 1325 and consecrated in 1393, showcasing excellent examples of Romanesque art. The cathedral houses exquisitely crafted tombs that tell stories from the past, and history enthusiasts should not miss the underground crypt, an architectural marvel featuring a labyrinth of columns dating back to the 1300s.

The cathedral is open daily from 8:30 AM to 6 PM (5 PM in winter). Entrance is free, but there is a €3 fee to access the crypt. Guided tours in English are available on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 11 AM for €5 per person.

Saint-Michel Church (Église Saint-Michel)

This beautiful church features a unique blend of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. Its façade exemplifies the transitional period between these two significant art movements, making it particularly interesting for architecture enthusiasts.

Located just a short walk from Place François Rude, Saint-Michel offers a quieter experience than the more famous Notre-Dame. The church is open daily from 9 AM to 6 PM, and entry is free.

Philip the Good Tower (Tour Philippe le Bon)

Standing at an impressive height of 150 feet (46 meters), this 15th-century tower provides the best panoramic views of Dijon. Built for the Duke of Burgundy, the tower is conveniently situated in the square leading to the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy.

To fully appreciate the tower’s grandeur, consider joining one of the guided tours that provide access to the summit for breathtaking views of the city. Tours cost €5 per person and run hourly from 10 AM to 5 PM between April and October. During the summer months, advance booking is essential as space is limited to 19 people per tour.

Pro tip: Expect a workout with the climb, which involves 316 steps and no elevator! Your effort is rewarded with spectacular 360-degree views of Dijon and its surrounding countryside.

Maison Millière

This medieval half-timbered house has stood the test of time since 1483 and is one of the best-preserved examples of medieval domestic architecture in Dijon. Featured in the film “Cyrano de Bergerac,” the building now houses a restaurant where you can savor traditional Burgundian cuisine in a historic setting.

The restaurant offers a lunch menu starting at €21, featuring regional specialties. Reservations are recommended, especially for dinner service.

Gastronomic Delights

Dijon Mustard

No visit to Dijon is complete without exploring the city’s most famous export—Dijon mustard. While most commercial production has moved elsewhere, several boutique shops in the city center continue the tradition of selling artisanal mustards.

Moutarde Maille provides an exceptional experience with a mustard tasting bar, where you can sample unique flavors such as blackcurrant (cassis) mustard or saffron-infused varieties. Small jars start at €4, while premium varieties are around €9. The shop, located near Place François Rude, is open Monday through Saturday from 9:30 AM to 7 PM.

For a more hands-on experience, consider joining a mustard-making workshop at La Moutarderie Fallot (advance booking required, €10 per person), where you can create your own mustard blend to take home as a unique souvenir.

Les Halles Central Market

For food lovers, Les Halles Central Market offers a symphony of flavors and aromas that transport you into Burgundy’s gastronomic paradise. This covered market was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same architect responsible for the Eiffel Tower in Paris, adding architectural significance to your food shopping experience.

The market features dozens of vendors selling fresh produce, artisanal cheeses, freshly baked bread, and local delicacies. It is open Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday mornings from 7 AM to 1 PM, so plan accordingly. Tuesdays tend to be less crowded than weekend sessions.

Pro tip: Visit around 11 AM when some vendors offer free samples, and remember to bring cash, as not all stalls accept credit cards.

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Burgundy’s culinary tradition goes well beyond just mustard. While in Dijon, don’t miss out on these local specialties:

• Boeuf Bourguignon: This iconic beef stew, slow-cooked in red wine, is a cornerstone of Burgundian cuisine. For an authentic experience, visit Restaurant Des Ducs near the palace, where it’s available for €23, accompanied by side dishes.
• Coq au Vin: Another delightful wine-based dish featuring chicken, carefully slow-cooked to perfection. La Maison des Cariatides offers a refined version for €26.
• Nonnettes: These soft gingerbread cookies, filled with jam, have been made in Dijon for centuries. Stop by Mulot & Petitjean, a bakery founded in 1796, to try these treats, with a box of six costing about €6.
• Crème de Cassis: This blackcurrant liqueur is essential for making Kir, the famous Burgundian aperitif that combines Crème de Cassis with white wine. Many restaurants serve Kir for €3-5, and bottles of Crème de Cassis start at €10 in local shops.
• Escargots de Bourgogne: Prepared with garlic butter, these Burgundian snails are a must-try for the adventurous eater. They typically cost around €10-12 for a half-dozen.

Wine Experiences

As the capital of one of France’s premier wine regions, Dijon provides excellent opportunities to taste renowned Burgundy wines. Several wine shops in the city center offer tastings, including La Cave du Chaignot, where you can sample five wines for €15.

For a more immersive experience, the International and Gastronomic City (Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie) offers wine workshops starting at €20, providing insights into the region’s terroir and winemaking traditions.

Pro tip: While Burgundy wines can be pricey, many restaurants offer wine by the glass (€5-12), allowing you to explore different varieties without committing to a full bottle.

Parks and Gardens

Jardin Darcy

This tranquil park features a beautiful fountain and lush greenery, providing a peaceful escape from city exploration. Located near Porte Guillaume, a monumental arch that once marked the city’s entrance, Jardin Darcy is an ideal spot for a relaxing break.

The park is open daily from sunrise to sunset, and entry is free. It’s particularly enchanting in late spring when the rose garden is in bloom.

Dijon Botanical Garden

Home to more than 4,000 plant species from around the globe, the Botanical Garden offers a serene environment for leisurely strolls. Just a short walk from the city center, this green oasis provides a refreshing contrast to the urban landscape.

The garden is open daily from 8 AM to 8 PM in summer (closing earlier in winter), and admission is free. Guided tours are available on Sundays at 3 PM for €5 per person.

Place de la Libération

This semi-circular square, adorned with impressive fountains, pays tribute to significant figures in French history. Strategically located in front of the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, it adds an extra touch of majesty to the experience.

The fountains operate from April to October, providing a spectacular water display every hour on the hour from 11 AM to 10 PM. The square is surrounded by cafés and restaurants, making it an inviting spot to relax after visiting the palace.

Beyond Dijon’s Center

Route des Grands Crus

The renowned Route des Grands Crus wine road is one of the most scenic drives in the region. This iconic route stretches 60 kilometers from Dijon to Santenay, passing through prestigious wine villages such as Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, and Meursault.

You don’t need a car to enjoy this experience—several tour operators offer half-day excursions from Dijon starting at €60 per person, which includes transportation and tastings at two wineries. If you’re driving, you can obtain a detailed route map from the Tourist Office for €5.

Pro tip: If you’re driving, consider limiting yourself to 2-3 winery visits in one day, as many require advance appointments for tastings.

Château with Transport Museum

An unexpected attraction near Dijon is a 13th-century castle that houses an impressive collection of vehicles. This unique museum features everything from vintage cars (primarily red ones) to planes, motorcycles, tractors, and even fire engines.

Located about 15 minutes from Dijon by car, the castle was initially built in the 13th century but was dismantled in 1478 following Louis XI’s invasion of Burgundy. Fortunately, it was restored in the early 17th century. Today, it is surrounded by beautiful vineyards and showcases this fascinating transportation collection.

The museum is open daily from April through October, from 10 AM to 6 PM. Admission costs €12 for adults and €8 for children aged 6-16.

Beaune

Just 40 kilometers south of Dijon, the charming town of Beaune makes for an excellent day trip. The town’s crown jewel is the historic Hospices de Beaune (Hôtel-Dieu), a former hospital dating back to the 1400s that remains remarkably intact, including its chapel.

The Hospices de Beaune is famous for its distinctive colorful tiled roof and serves as a museum today. It is open daily from 9 AM to 6:30 PM (with shorter hours in winter), and admission costs €10 for adults, which includes an audio guide.

Regular trains connect Dijon to Beaune (20 minutes, €8 each way), making this an easy excursion even without a car.

Practical Information

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Dijon is from late spring (May) to early autumn (September), when the weather is perfect for walking tours and enjoying outdoor cafés. The city is especially beautiful in June, when the gardens are in full bloom, and September aligns with the harvest season in the surrounding vineyards.

Winter visits have their own charm, featuring fewer tourists and festive Christmas markets in December, but be prepared for cold temperatures, typically averaging between 3-5°C (37-41°F).

Getting Around

Dijon’s historic center is compact and ideal for exploring on foot, with most attractions located within a 15-minute walk of each other. For longer distances, the city offers the following options:

• Trams: Two lines connect major points of interest. A single ticket costs €1.40, while a day pass is €4.30.
• Bikes: DiviaVélo provides bike rentals for €2 for the first hour and €1 for each additional hour, with stations located throughout the city.
• Free shuttle: A free electric shuttle circles the historic center every 10 minutes between 8 AM and 7 PM on weekdays.

Pro tip: The Dijon City Pass offers unlimited public transportation and free entry to numerous museums and attractions. It costs €25 for 24 hours or €39 for 48 hours and can be purchased at the Tourist Office.

Recommended Itineraries

One-Day Itinerary:

• Morning: Follow the Owl Trail to see major landmarks.
• Lunch: Sample regional cuisine at Place François Rude.
• Afternoon: Visit the Palace of the Dukes and the Museum of Fine Arts.
• Evening: Enjoy aperitifs and dinner near Place de la Libération.

Two-Day Itinerary:

• Day 1: Explore historic Dijon as outlined above.
• Day 2: Take a half-day wine tour along Route des Grands Crus, followed by a visit to Les Halles market and souvenir shopping.

Shopping and Souvenirs

In addition to mustard, consider these authentic souvenirs:

• Gingerbread: Traditional pain d’épices from Mulot & Petitjean (€8-15).
• Cassis products: Blackcurrant jam, liqueur, or mustard (€5-15).
• Burgundy wines: Look for bottles from small producers that are not widely exported (€15-50).
• Ceramic owl figurines: Available at various price points (€5-30).

Most shops in central Dijon open around 10 AM and close between 7-8 PM, with many closing for lunch from 12:30-2 PM. Most stores are closed on Sundays, except for some food shops that open on Sunday mornings.

Dijon combines history, culture, and gastronomy in a compact, walkable setting that offers authentic French experiences without the crowds found in more famous destinations. The city’s well-preserved medieval architecture, along with modern comforts, allows visitors to step back in time while enjoying excellent cuisine and wine.

For the best experience, set aside at least two days to explore both the city and the surrounding wine country. From the Owl Trail to mustard tastings and Burgundian wines, Dijon provides a sophisticated yet accessible glimpse of eastern France that beautifully enhances any French itinerary.

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