Hakone Japan

Hakone is one of Japan’s best-known nature-focused destinations, combining volcanic landscapes, Lake Ashi, misty forests, ropeways, pirate boats and soothing hot-spring ryokans. It is an ideal escape from Tokyo: calmer, greener and beautifully photogenic in every season. Families come here for easy transport, dramatic mountain views, a chance to see Mount Fuji and a wide range of activities children enjoy, from boats and ropeways to cable cars and light hiking.

Hakone Transport – How to Get Around Hakone Easily?

Hakone’s transport network is a “mini adventure” in itself. Trains, ropeways, funiculars and boats form a circular “Golden Route” that allows travellers to explore the region in a smooth, varied and engaging way.

How to arrive from Tokyo?
You can reach Hakone quickly and comfortably from Tokyo: take the Shinkansen to Odawara for the fastest connection, or the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku (around 1.5 hours, with large panoramic windows).

From Odawara, you begin the full Hakone loop:
Hakone Tozan Railway → Gora
Funicular → Sounzan
Hakone Ropeway → Owakudani → Togendai
Pirate Ship on Lake Ashi → Motohakone
Local mountain buses back to Hakone-Yumoto / Odawara

Should you rent a car?
Renting a car is often the easiest option, especially for families. The roads are winding but manageable, and driving allows for greater flexibility and comfort, without relying on bus schedules or transfers.

Tip from the Itinerary Expert:
Start the loop early, particularly the Lake Ashi and Ropeway sections. After about 10:00, queues in Motohakone and Owakudani tend to grow significantly longer.

I stood by Lake Ashi watching the pirate ship slowly approach the pier. A moment where the mountains, water, and sky blended into one peaceful scene.

When to Visit Hakone – What Weather Should You Expect?

Hakone is beautiful throughout the year, but the weather has a strong impact on visibility and your chances of seeing Mount Fuji.

Best seasons

• Winter (January-February): the highest probability of clear Mount Fuji views.
• Autumn (November-December): red maple leaves, crisp air and very scenic landscapes.
• Spring: pleasant temperatures but more unpredictable weather.
• Summer: lush green hillsides, but Fuji is often completely hidden by clouds.

Tip from the Itinerary Expert:
If seeing Mount Fuji is a priority, plan at least 1-2 nights in Hakone. I learned this the hard way: even during a three-day stay I saw Fuji clearly only once, and even then partially behind the clouds.

Top Attractions in Hakone – What Are the Must-Sees?

Lake Ashi – The Heart of Hakone

Lake Ashi is the most iconic place in Hakone: a volcanic lake with mountain panoramas, pirate ships and the famous red torii gate belonging to Hakone Shrine.

Why families love it

• Easy, relaxed walks along the waterfront
• Pirate ship cruises (about 25-30 minutes)
• Swan pedal boats on the lake
• Some of the best vantage points for Mount Fuji, when the weather allows

Pirate Ship
The decorative tall ships offer open viewing decks and, for an additional fee, first-class cabins with quieter space and better angles for photography.

Tip from the Itinerary Expert:
For a perfect photo of the Torii without long queues, rent a swan catamaran and take pictures from the water instead of waiting 40-60 minutes in line on the shore.

Honest downside
On weekends and holidays, the lakeside area becomes crowded, and visibility often gets worse in the afternoon.

Hakone Shrine (Hakone Jinja) & Heiwa-no-Torii – What Makes This Shrine Unique?

Hakone Shrine is a atmospheric complex hidden in tall cryptomeria forests, with long stone staircases and the famous floating torii gate rising from Lake Ashi.

What to expect
You walk along shaded forest paths, then climb a relatively steep but manageable staircase to the shrine buildings. The classic photos are taken at the water’s edge near Heiwa-no-Torii. Even early in the morning there are often long queues; lines can form as early as 9:00.

The Itinerary Expert recommends visiting just after sunrise or shortly before sunset: the light is softer, the atmosphere is more magical and the crowds are noticeably smaller.

Hakone Ropeway & Owakudani – Is It Worth Going Up?

Yes, especially for families. The Hakone Ropeway offers dramatic views over volcanic valleys, sulfur steam vents and, in good weather, Mount Fuji in the distance.

At Owakudani
You will notice a strong sulfur smell typical of active volcanic zones. There are famous black eggs boiled in geothermal springs, observation decks with views over the valley and surrounding mountains, and several walking paths within controlled areas. Many children find the “moon-like” landscape and the idea that each black egg adds seven years to your life both fun and memorable.

Downside
Strong wind can halt ropeway operations, and the weather at this altitude is colder and harsher than at the lake or in the towns. Layers are essential.

Hakone Tozan Railway – Why Is This Train Special?

The Hakone Tozan Railway is one of Japan’s oldest mountain railways and is known for its switch-backs, where the train literally changes direction mid-route.

Seats rotate automatically when the train reverses, which children usually find fascinating. The gorge views from the windows are especially beautiful during the autumn foliage season.

Hakone Open-Air Museum – Is It Good for Families?

The Hakone Open-Air Museum is an excellent stop for both adults and children.

What you’ll find
The museum features large outdoor sculptures scattered across a spacious park, the Picasso Pavilion, and glass-and-steel installations that create colorful reflections and light patterns. The grounds are ideal for children to walk, run and explore safely between artworks while adults enjoy the art and views.

Natural Spots in Hakone – Where to Find the Best Nature?

Lake Ashi Walking Paths

Around Lake Ashi there are quiet, forested paths along the water, perfect for early-morning walks before the day-tripper crowds arrive.

Owakudani Volcanic Valley

Owakudani is a raw and powerful landscape of steam, vents and mineral springs. The marked paths and viewpoints allow you to experience the volcanic environment up close without long or difficult hikes.

Old Tokaido Road (Cedar Avenue)

A preserved stretch of the historic Tokaido Road runs through a dense avenue of cryptomeria trees. The stone-paved path feels cinematic and atmospheric yet remains suitable for families with school-age children.

Mountain hikes

The surrounding region offers several short scenic walks with misty forests and, on clear days, occasional Fuji views. Even simple, one- to two-hour routes leave strong impressions thanks to the combination of fresh air, greenery and mountain scenery.

The Itinerary Expert reminds you to bring comfortable shoes: even easy strolls often include slopes, steps and uneven stone surfaces.

Children’s Activities – What Can Kids Do in Hakone?

All the activities below are particularly suitable for families and easy to combine into a relaxed day in Hakone:

• Pirate ships on Lake Ashi
• Swan paddle boats
• Hakone Ropeway with views over the volcanic valley
• Tasting black eggs at Owakudani
• Easy forest trails and short hikes
• Play-friendly areas and outdoor sculptures at the Open-Air Museum
• Funicular and mountain trains, which many children consider an attraction in their own right

3-Day Family Itinerary – Hakone, Japan

Day 1 – Hakone: Mountains, Art & Onsen

Morning (10:00-13:00)
Arrive at Odawara Station by Shinkansen or car, then continue to Hakone-Yumoto. From there, take the Hakone Tozan Railway up to Gora (around 40-60 minutes) with beautiful mountain views and the characteristic switch-backs that children enjoy. From Gora, walk about 10 minutes to the Hakone Open-Air Museum and spend 1.5-2 hours between the outdoor sculptures and the Picasso Pavilion.

Lunch (13:00-14:30)
Have lunch at a simple restaurant near Gora Station. Warm soba, set meals and dishes with local mountain vegetables are common in this area.

Afternoon & Evening (14:30-18:00)
Check into a ryokan in or near Gora, with tatami rooms and access to an onsen. Plan 1-2 hours for rest and hot-spring time before dinner. Many ryokans serve multi-course Japanese dinners; allow about 90 minutes to enjoy the full experience.

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Day 2 – Hakone: Ropeway, Volcano & Lake Ashi

Morning (10:00-13:00)
From Gora, ride the funicular (Hakone Cable Car) to Sounzan (about 15-20 minutes), then transfer to the Hakone Ropeway to Owakudani. Spend around one hour in the volcanic valley, enjoying the steam, observation points and black eggs. Afterwards, continue by ropeway to Togendai on Lake Ashi.

Lunch (13:00-14:30)
At Togendai or Motohakone, choose a lakeside restaurant for tempura or set meals. Prices for a simple grilled meat lunch with rice and pickles for two are typically around 3000–4000 yen, depending on the restaurant.

Afternoon (14:30-18:00)
Take the pirate ship cruise (Hakone Sightseeing Cruise) across Lake Ashi for about 20-30 minutes. Economy tickets start from approximately 1200 yen per adult, while first-class cabins offer extra space and a quieter atmosphere. Disembark at Motohakone Port and walk 10-15 minutes through the cryptomeria forest to Hakone Shrine. Allow 1-1.5 hours to explore the shrine complex and the Heiwa-no-Torii by the lake.

Riding the ropeway, I couldn’t take my eyes off the view — Lake Ashi shimmering in the sunlight and the mountains unfolding layer by layer.

Day 3 – Hakone: Old Road & Slow Lake Day

Morning (10:00-13:00)
Drive or take a local bus to a section of the Old Tokaido Road near Lake Ashi and walk through the cedar avenue. Plan 1-1.5 hours of easy forest walking with children. Continue to Amazake Chaya for a break with traditional amazake and light snacks.

Lunch (13:00-14:30)
Have lunch at a small teahouse or café along the route. Simple rice bowls or noodle dishes are typical here. Many places around the lake accept cash only, so prepare yen in advance.

Afternoon (14:30-18:00)
Spend your last hours back at Lake Ashi. You can take another short cruise or rent a swan boat (30-60 minutes), enjoy an easy lakeside walk, and finish with coffee and dessert at a lakeside café with views of Fuji or the Torii if the weather cooperates. Around 17:00-18:00, drive or take the bus back to Odawara for onward travel.

Traveler Reviews

1. Emma Collins – visited in October 2023
   “I spent two days in Hakone with my kids, and the ropeway ride over Owakudani was their absolute highlight. The volcanic steam and black eggs felt almost unreal. Lake Ashi was beautiful, though Fuji stayed behind the clouds. A small tip: take the pirate boat’s first-class cabin; it is quieter and great for photos. Crowds near the Torii gate were the only real challenge.”
2. Daniel Harris – visited in May 2019
   “Hakone surprised me with how peaceful it felt. We stayed in a ryokan overlooking the mountains, and soaking in the evening onsen after a long day was perfect. The Lake Ashi cruise was short but very relaxing. We could not see Fuji because of fog, but the atmosphere made up for it. The only struggle was finding restaurants that accepted cards – cash is essential.”
3. Olivia Bennett – visited in July 2025
   “We reached Lake Ashi on a humid summer morning, and even though Fuji did not appear, the scenery was gorgeous: deep green mountains, calm water and those bright pirate ships. My kids adored the swan boats. The line at Heiwa-no-Torii was too long for us, so we walked a bit further for quiet lake views. Honestly, that ended up being even better.”
4. Michael Turner – visited in November 2018
   “Hakone in late autumn feels almost magical. The forests around the shrine were glowing red and gold, and the ropeway views were crystal clear. One thing I did not expect was how windy it gets near Owakudani. Bring layers even if the morning feels warm. Still, it was one of the best day trips we have done as a family.”
5. Sophia Grant – visited in April 2024
   “We rode the entire ‘Hakone loop’ – train, funicular, ropeway, boat – and the kids thought it was an amusement park disguised as nature. The volcanic valley was windy and intense, but fascinating. Lake Ashi was calm, and I loved how different it looked from each angle. My only regret was arriving late to the shrine – the photo line was already massive.”

Tips from the Itinerary Expert

1. Start Lake Ashi early
   I have arrived at Heiwa-no-Torii as early as 09:30 and the photo line was already forming. If you want the classic shot without waiting 40-60 minutes, plan to go right after sunrise.
2. Use a swan boat instead of the queue
   On days when the line was overwhelming, I rented a swan pedal boat and photographed the Torii from the lake. It was calmer, offered better angles and the children enjoyed the ride.
3. Always carry cash
   Many cafés and restaurants around Hakone-Yumoto and Lake Ashi did not accept cards. I once had to walk about 10 minutes from the station just to find an ATM. Bring enough yen to avoid such surprises.
4. Choose a ryokan with a private onsen
   On one stay I paid only a small cleaning fee and had a private hot-spring bath with mountain views. For families with children, this feels much more comfortable than a busy public onsen.
5. Expect strong wind on the Hakone Ropeway
   At Owakudani the wind was so intense that I went straight into the next available cabin. Pack a light jacket even in warm seasons; the weather changes quickly at higher altitude.
6. Give Fuji at least two days
   I have spent entire days waiting for clouds to clear. Even in seemingly perfect weather, Fuji may remain hidden. Staying overnight gives you more chances to see it at different times of day.
7. Eat before the main lunch rush
   Restaurants around Motohakone and Togendai tend to fill up around lunchtime. On windy or cold days everyone rushes indoors. I try to eat around 11:30-12:00 to avoid long waits.
8. Use the full Hakone loop only once
   The Golden Route – train, funicular, ropeway, boat – is great fun for children, but it is also tiring. I usually do the full loop in one direction and then return via the fastest option, such as bus or car, to save energy.
9. Bring water shoes or sandals
   In summer, some areas along the shore of Lake Ashi are rocky. I once went for a swim and the stones were quite sharp. Lightweight sandals make lake stops safer and more comfortable.
10. Walk at least a short section of the Old Tokaido Road
    A short walk along the forested path between ancient cryptomeria trees felt like a hidden world. Doing it early on a weekday made it almost empty – an excellent atmosphere for families.

Insights from the Itinerary Expert

I last visited Hakone in April 2024, and each time I return I am reminded how refreshing it feels compared to Tokyo’s pace. What I love most is how naturally the day flows here: you start on a mountain train, glide over a volcanic valley on the Hakone Ropeway, and suddenly find yourself sailing across Lake Ashi with mist curling over the water. Even when Mount Fuji does not appear – and it often stays hidden – the landscape still feels cinematic.

When planning for families, I appreciate how easy it is to combine fun and comfort in Hakone. Children are instantly fascinated by the steam and smells of Owakudani and by the pirate ships on Lake Ashi, while adults enjoy quiet ryokan evenings and hot springs. There are practical details to keep in mind: the wind near Owakudani can be very strong, queues at Heiwa-no-Torii grow quickly, and many cafés accept only cash. I experienced all of this myself, and it only reinforced how important it is to plan intelligently.

Hakone is one of those rare places where nature, comfort and simple joy come together naturally. With a bit of preparation and a flexible plan, it becomes a destination that families remember for years.

Walking through Kyoto’s old streets, I felt as if I’d stepped into the past. The pagoda glowing in the evening light looked magical.

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I stood among the autumn leaves, admiring the small temple tucked between the trees. Japan in autumn feels like a living painting.

FAQs – Hakone

1. What is the best time of year to see Mount Fuji from Hakone?
   Clear views are most common in winter and late autumn. Even on sunny days Fuji can stay hidden behind fast-moving clouds, so plan at least one overnight stay for better chances.
2. Is the Hakone Ropeway suitable for children?
   Yes. The ropeway is family-friendly and has no strict age restrictions. The main limitation is weather: strong winds at Owakudani can cause temporary closures.
3. How long should a family spend at Lake Ashi?
   Plan 2-3 hours. This allows time for a 20-30 minute pirate ship cruise, a lakeside walk and photos near Heiwa-no-Torii. Crowds usually increase quickly after about 10:00.
4. Do I need cash in Hakone?
   Yes. On my last trip many cafés around Hakone-Yumoto and Lake Ashi did not accept cards, and I had to walk about 10 minutes to the nearest ATM. Carrying yen saves time and frustration.
5. How long does the full Hakone loop take?
   The Golden Route – train → funicular → ropeway → cruise → bus – typically takes 4-6 hours, depending mainly on queues at Owakudani and Motohakone.
6. Is Owakudani safe for kids?
   From my experience, yes. The paths are controlled and well marked. The main challenges are the sulfur smell and strong wind. My children found it exciting, but shorter visits work best.
7. Are there food options suitable for families?
   Yes. Around Gora and Motohakone you will find simple soba restaurants, tempura sets, grilled meat lunches and cafés with lake views. Prices are moderate and portions are generally family-friendly.

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