Pompeii: A Journey Through Time and Ash – An Ancient Roman City Buried in Ashes

The ancient city of Pompeii, established in the 6th or 7th century BCE, was buried under volcanic ash in 79 CE after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Excavations that began in the mid-18th century uncovered a remarkably preserved city, functioning as a “time capsule” that reveals daily life in ancient Rome. To date, only about 30% of the site has been excavated, with the layer of ash covering it reaching up to 15 meters thick.

How to Get to Pompeii

From Naples:

The most convenient and economical option is the Circumvesuviana train (Naples-Sorrento line):

• Departure station: Napoli Garibaldi/Napoli Centrale
• Arrival station: Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri
• Cost: Approximately €2.80 one way
• Travel time: 30-40 minutes

If you’re arriving from Naples Airport, the Curreri Viaggi bus goes directly to the main entrance of Pompeii.

From Sorrento:

Take the Circumvesuviana train (Sorrento-Naples line):

• Cost: Approximately €2.80 one way
• Travel time: About one hour

From Rome:

Travel by high-speed train to Naples, then switch to the local train:

• Rome-Naples high-speed train: Approximately 60-90 minutes
• Continue as described above.

By Private Car:

Roads in the Campania region can be busy and challenging. Parking is available near the main entrance (Porta Marina) or near the Amphitheater, with daily rates ranging from €5 to €10.

Tickets and Visiting Hours

Ticket Prices

• Regular ticket: €15-16
• Discounted ticket (after 15:30): €10 (no access to the Antiquarium)
• Combined tickets with other archaeological sites in the area are also
  available.

Opening Hours

• April-October: 9:00-19:00 (last entry at 17:30)
• November-March: 9:00-17:00 (last entry at 15:30)
• Closed on: January 1, May 1, December 25

Recommended Visiting Time

It is suggested to allocate at least 4-5 hours (half a day) to see the main attractions. A full day is recommended for a more thorough visit. Arriving early in the morning can help you avoid tourist crowds and the summer heat.

Main Attractions in Pompeii

Forum and Public Buildings

Basilica of Pompeii (Basilica Pompeiana)

Built between 78-120 BCE, the Basilica is an impressive structure measuring 25 by 55 meters. It initially served as a covered market and later functioned as a courthouse. The center of the Basilica features a peristyle surrounded by 28 Corinthian columns, each about 10 meters high. The geometric precision of its architecture and the grandeur of its columns reflect the building’s historical significance.

Tip: Visit during the early morning to avoid tourist crowds and fully appreciate the unique echo between the walls. Don’t miss the intriguing Centaur statue, often referred to as a fascinating enigma.

Temple of Apollo (Santuario di Apollo)

The Temple of Apollo is among the city’s oldest temples, likely built in the 8th or 7th century BCE. It is surrounded by 28 columns, of which only two remain intact. The interior niches feature decorations depicting scenes from the Trojan War, and various statues of gods once adorned the pedestals.

Photography Tip: Sunrise casts a beautiful light on the temple ruins, providing an ideal opportunity for stunning photographs of the columns and overall structure.

Building of Eumachia

The Building of Eumachia was constructed by Eumachia, one of Pompeii’s wealthiest and most influential women. Located in the Forum, this impressive structure served as a commercial center for wool merchants. Inside, you’ll find a replica of Eumachia’s statue (the original is housed in the museum in Naples).

Tip: Take the time to appreciate the original decorative elements that still grace the walls and columns. The Building of Eumachia tends to attract fewer visitors, allowing for a more relaxed experience.

Residential Houses and Villas

House of the Faun (Casa del Fauno)

The House of the Faun is one of Pompeii’s largest residences, covering an area nearly equivalent to an entire urban district. It is named after a bronze statue of a faun found in the atrium’s center. The house is renowned for one of the most celebrated mosaics from antiquity, “Alexander’s Battle against Darius” (a copy is on-site; the original is in Naples).

Tip: Spend some time at the entrance mosaic, which showcases motifs of natural life. Visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon to see how natural light enhances the atrium from different angles.

House of the Vettii (Casa dei Vettii)

Once home to freed merchant brothers who achieved wealth, the House of the Vettii boasts stunning frescoes from the fourth style of Roman wall art. Its inner garden features marble statues, fountains, and restored artifacts, while a statue of Priapus, the god of fertility and a symbol of luck, stands at the entrance.

Tip: As one of the busiest buildings in Pompeii, plan your visit during opening or closing hours to avoid crowds. Be sure to admire the luxurious salon’s frescoes, which showcase the signature red of Pompeii.

House of the Tragic Poet (Casa del Poeta Tragico)

The House of the Tragic Poet is well-known for its entrance mosaic, which depicts a dog accompanied by the inscription “Cave Canem” (“Beware of the dog”). Inside, the frescoes illustrate scenes from classical epics and plays, including “Achilles and Briseis” and “The Sacrifice of Iphigenia.”

Tip: A part of the house is somewhat hidden from the main path, making it less crowded with visitors. For fans of popular culture, there is a reference in the house to the popular anime series “JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure,” drawing the attention of anime enthusiasts.

House of Sallust (Casa di Sallustio)

The House of Sallust is one of the oldest residences in Pompeii, featuring an exceptionally large kitchen, complete with three millstones, and an impressive inner courtyard. Its name comes from an inscription found on the facade, although it is uncertain whether the historian Sallust actually lived there.

Tip: Pay attention to the section that served as a small restaurant with a separate entrance. You can see the counter and the storage rooms for tableware, offering a glimpse into the blend of commercial and private life in the Roman city.

Public Buildings

Large and Small Theaters

The Large Theater, also known as the Pompeii Theater, could accommodate up to 5,000 spectators. It was constructed in a semicircular shape on a natural slope, providing an excellent venue for plays and performances. In contrast, the Small Theater, or Odeon, was designed for music and singing performances and was covered, making it ideal for a more exclusive audience.

Tip: Stand in the center of the Small Theater and speak in a normal voice; the special acoustics will amplify your voice. The Large Theater also offers a stunning view of Mount Vesuvius.

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Amphitheater

Built in 80 BCE, the Amphitheater could hold up to 20,000 spectators and was a venue for gladiatorial battles. Located at the eastern end of the city, its lower section is carved into rock, which lowered construction costs and created a particularly stable structure.

Tip: Reaching the Amphitheater requires a lengthy walk, but the effort is rewarding. Fewer visitors venture there, providing a more tranquil experience. Climbing to the top offers a magnificent view of the site and Mount Vesuvius.

Public Baths (Terme)

The Forum Baths, constructed in 120 BCE, cover an area of 900 square meters and include separate wings for men and women. Each wing features rooms with cold, lukewarm, and hot baths. The women’s wing also contained bronze bathtubs for private bathing.

Tip: Look for the mosaics and the under-floor heating system (hypocaust). Visiting in the early morning or late afternoon allows you to see the light filtering through the small windows, just as it did 2,000 years ago.

Thermopolium (Ancient Restaurants)

Thermopolia were ancient “fast food” establishments, with about 89 located in Pompeii. Their most notable feature is ceramic counters with sunken containers for keeping hot food, wine, and dried fruits. Larger thermopolia often had seating areas and sometimes included spaces for gambling.

Tip: Look for the paintings on the walls of the thermopolia that depict the food served, as well as the grooves in the counters for the dolia covers. One of the best-preserved thermopolia is located near the Forum.

Bakeries

Pompeii’s 34 bakeries showcase the entire bread-making process, from grinding grains in round millstones to baking in brick ovens. Remarkably, 83 loaves of bread were found perfectly carbonized in one of the ovens during the eruption.

Tip: At the Pistrinum, you can see the original mills and the oven. Take note of the grooves in the floor where donkeys were tied to turn the mills. Large chimneys can help you identify the bakeries.

Villa of Mysteries (Villa dei Misteri)

The Villa of Mysteries, located outside the city walls, is renowned for its series of enigmatic frescoes depicting a Dionysian ritual. The villa comprises approximately 60 rooms and was likely an agricultural estate that produced wine. The frescoes, remarkably preserved, surround a large room and feature life-sized figures in vibrant colors.

Tip: Access the villa via the Herculaneum Gate (Porta Ercolano) and the path to the necropolis. It is advisable to visit with a guide to grasp the complex symbolism of the frescoes. On weekdays outside the tourist season, the villa tends to be less crowded, allowing you to enjoy the paintings without the crowds.

Practical Tips for Visitors

Preparation for the Visit

• Wear Comfortable Shoes: The ancient sidewalks are uneven and can be challenging to navigate.
• Sun Protection: There is limited shade at the site, so bringing sunscreen is essential.
• Stay Hydrated: Carry plenty of water, especially during the summer months when temperatures can reach 30-33 degrees Celsius.
• Consider a Guide: For a more enriching experience, it’s advisable to hire a guide or rent an audio guide (€8).
• Obtain a Map: Pick up a map of the archaeological site at the entrance.

Best Time to Visit

• Ideal Seasons: Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are the best times to visit, as the temperatures are generally pleasant.
• Summer Visits: If visiting in summer, aim to arrive early in the morning (around 9:00 AM) and complete your visit before noon to avoid the peak heat. The site is open until 19:00 from April to October.

Food and Drink

• Dining Options: Several restaurants and cafeterias are located near the main entrances; however, prices tend to be higher than average in the area (€10-20 for a meal).
• Picnic Alternative: Consider bringing a picnic to enjoy in designated areas.

Additional Information

• Luggage Storage: You can leave your luggage at the train station.
• Accessibility: The site is partially accessible for individuals with disabilities, though some attractions may not be reachable.
• Wi-Fi Availability: Wi-Fi is limited to certain areas of the site.

Day Trips from Pompeii

Mount Vesuvius

• Distance: 10 km from Pompeii.
• Travel Method: Take a bus from Pompeii station for a 30-minute ride.
• Cost: €10 for entrance, plus €10-15 for transportation.
• Climbing Duration: Approximately 30 minutes.

Mount Vesuvius is an active volcano renowned for its devastating eruption in 79 CE, which buried Pompeii and Herculaneum. Today, it is a popular tourist destination, and hikers can ascend to the summit, where they are rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding area.

Herculaneum (Ercolano)

• Distance: A 20-minute drive from Pompeii.
• Travel Method: Take the Circumvesuviana train from Pompeii to Ercolano Scavi station.
• Cost: €11 (there is an option for a combined ticket with Pompeii).

Herculaneum, while smaller than Pompeii, is better preserved and features original paved streets, houses, and halls. This ancient city, also buried in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, is an excellent choice for visitors looking to escape the crowds at Pompeii.

Stabia

• Distance: A 20-minute drive from Pompeii.
• Travel Method: Take the Circumvesuviana train from Pompeii to Castellammare di Stabia station.

Stabia is another archaeological site that was destroyed in the eruption of Vesuvius. It is less frequented by tourists compared to Pompeii and Herculaneum, yet the remarkable Roman villas that remain are essential for history enthusiasts to explore.

Budget for the Trip

Transportation Costs

• Round-trip train from Naples: Approximately €5.60
• Shuttle from the airport: €10-15

Accommodation

• Stay in Pompeii: €80-120 per night
• Naples offers more affordable options: €50-100 per night
• Sorrento, while pricier, provides a more pleasant experience: €100-200 per night

Total Budget for a Day Visit to Pompeii

• Minimum budget: Approximately €19 per person (transportation + basic entrance ticket)
• Average budget including meals and guide: €50-70 per person

Pompeii is one of the world’s most significant archaeological attractions, offering a rare perspective on life in ancient Rome. The city, buried under Vesuvius ash nearly 2,000 years ago, showcases how Romans lived, worked, and entertained themselves. A visit to Pompeii is not merely a lesson in history; it is an exhilarating journey through time. For those interested in preparing for their visit, the film “Pompeii” (2014) provides an impressive visual reconstruction of the city as it appeared before the eruption, as well as depicting the eruption itself.

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