Georgia

Georgia is a country that captivates at first glance. Situated at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, it boasts remarkable diversity—from the snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus to the warm shores of the Black Sea, and from ancient monasteries to modern skyscrapers in Batumi. Independent travel in Georgia reveals a unique culture where Christian traditions blend with Eastern hospitality, and ancient wine-making methods are passed down through generations.

Key Highlights for Independent Travel to Georgia

• Year-Round Destination with Seasonal Features — Spring (April-May) is perfect for wine tours at affordable prices. Summer is the peak season with higher accommodation costs. Autumn is harvest time, showcasing golden landscapes, while winter is ski season with lower accommodation rates.
• 8,000-Year-Old Wine Culture — Kakheti is the birthplace of the qvevri (clay wine vessels), with wine tastings starting at 30 lari and homemade wine available from 10 lari per bottle, featuring over 500 grape varieties.
• Georgian Military Highway – One of the World’s Most Beautiful Roads — The route from Tbilisi to Kazbegi passes through Ananuri Fortress and offers breathtaking views from Gergeti Church at 2,170 meters. Off-road ascents cost 20-30 lari per person.
• Accessible Transport Throughout the Country — Marshrutkas range from 10 lari (Tbilisi-Kazbegi) to 25 lari (Tbilisi-Batumi). Car rentals start at $18 per day, and the Tbilisi-Batumi train costs 35 lari for second class.
• Gastronomic Diversity with a Hospitality Philosophy — Enjoy khachapuri starting at 10 lari and khinkali at 80 tetri each. Experience mandatory sulfur baths in Tbilisi from 30 lari for a private room for six.
• Economical Vacation Without Quality Loss — Budgeting $40-60 per day covers guesthouse accommodations (25-40 lari), meals at local cafes, and public transport.

About This Comprehensive Guide in Brief

This detailed travel guide provides practical information for independent travelers visiting the country at the intersection of Europe and Asia. It covers all aspects of trip planning, from selecting the best time of year to detailed itineraries and budgeting.

What the Guide Includes:

• Seasonality and Weather — Monthly recommendations for different types of vacations.
• Transport — Flights, marshrutkas, car rentals, trains with prices and features.
• Regions — Tbilisi, Batumi, Kazbegi, Kakheti, Svaneti along with local attractions.
• Cuisine and Drinks — Traditional dishes, wine culture, and restaurants.
• Ready 7-Day Georgia Itinerary — Including budget and practical tips.
• Expert Recommendations — Answers to common traveler questions.

Best Time to Visit Georgia: Weather and Seasons for Independent Travel

Georgia is appealing year-round for independent travelers, but each season has distinct characteristics.

Spring (April-May) — The ideal time for independent travel, with nature awakening, comfortable temperatures, and prices that haven’t yet inflated for the tourist season. May is especially great for visiting Kakheti, as the vineyards are lush and green.

Summer (June-August) — The peak tourist season, offering beautiful weather for trekking in the mountains and enjoying the coast. However, accommodation prices can rise 1.5-2 times, especially in Batumi.

Autumn (September-October) — Known for grape harvests and a mild “Indian summer.” September is perfect for nearly all regions, while October showcases golden autumn in the mountains.

Winter (December-March) — Attracts ski enthusiasts. Gudauri and Bakuriani offer excellent skiing conditions, with minimal accommodation prices.

Temperature Patterns by Region

In Tbilisi, summer temperatures reach +30-35°C, while winter drops to 0-5°C. Mountain regions are cooler: in Kazbegi, summer temperatures range from +20-25°C, and winter can drop to -10°C. Batumi has a subtropical climate with summer temperatures around +25-28°C and winter rarely falling below +5°C.

Recommendations by Season for Different Types of Tours to Georgia

• Beach Vacation: June-September (water temperature +22-25°C).
• Mountain Tourism and Trekking: May-October.
• Mountain Skiing: December-March.
• Wine Tours: September-October (harvest time).
• Sightseeing Tours: April-May, September-October.

Transport in Georgia for Independent Travel

Getting to Georgia

Flights — The most popular mode of travel to Georgia, which has two international airports: Tbilisi (the largest) and Kutaisi (serviced by budget airlines). Direct flights are available from many European capitals, with connections through Istanbul, Dubai, and Frankfurt. Ticket prices vary by season and departure point, with the best time to buy being 2-3 months before travel.

From Tbilisi airport to the city center: bus #37 (1 lari), Bolt taxi (30-40 lari), or hotel transfer.

Overland Transport is available for travelers from neighboring countries, with bus routes from Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Turkey.

Transport Within the Country for Traveling Through Georgia

Marshrutkas — Main Public Transport

Marshrutkas are minivans connecting all settlements in Georgia. They depart from bus stations (often just platforms) as they fill up, typically in the morning around 8:00.

Main Routes and Prices:

• Tbilisi — Batumi: 25 lari, 5-6 hours.
• Tbilisi — Kutaisi: 15 lari, 3-4 hours.
• Tbilisi — Kazbegi (Stepantsminda): 10 lari, 3 hours.
• Kutaisi — Mestia: 20 lari, 4-5 hours.

While marshrutkas may not always be comfortable, they offer an authentic travel experience in Georgia. It’s advisable to book seats in advance, especially during summer.

Car Rental

Pros: complete freedom of movement, access to remote attractions, and the ability to stop for photos. Cons: unique driving styles (quite aggressive), challenging mountain roads, and potential for expensive fines.

Recommended companies: Localrent.com, DiffeRent Car, Megobari Car. Prices start at $18 per day for economy class and $35-50 for SUVs.

For trips to Svaneti, renting a 4WD vehicle is essential, as regular cars may not handle mountain roads well.

Taxis and Apps

Bolt is the most popular app in Georgia, operating in all major cities with reasonable fares. A ride in the Tbilisi city center typically costs 3-5 lari.

Regular taxis require negotiation, so always agree on a price beforehand and don’t hesitate to negotiate.

Driver-Guide Services

Many taxi drivers offer excursion services, which are convenient for visiting remote sites like David Gareja or Vardzia. The cost for a day with a driver-guide is about $120-150 for 1-4 people. The driver can provide interesting insights, historical context, and translation assistance.

Trains

While the railway network is limited, there is a convenient fast service between Tbilisi and Batumi. Trains run three times daily (morning, afternoon, evening), with a travel time of 5.5-6 hours. Ticket prices are 35 lari for second class and 75 lari for first class. It’s best to buy tickets in advance, especially during the summer.

Main Tourist Destinations and Attractions in Georgia

Tbilisi — Gateway to Georgia

The capital welcomes travelers with a captivating blend of historical eras. In the Old Town, 19th-century carved balconies sit alongside ancient churches, while the ultramodern Peace Bridge arches over the historic Kura River.

Sulfur Baths in Abanotubani are a must-visit. These dome-shaped buildings conceal hot hydrogen sulfide springs. A private room at popular bath #5 costs 30 lari per hour (accommodating up to 6 people), which includes access to hot and cold pools. For an additional 20 lari, you can enjoy a scrub with a rough mitt, leaving your skin feeling silky smooth.

Narikala Fortress has proudly overlooked the city since the 4th century. The ascent takes about 20 minutes via stone steps, but you can also take the cable car from Rike Park for just 2.5 lari. From here, you’ll be treated to stunning views of Tbilisi at sunset.

Mtatsminda features a mountain amusement park and a TV tower. The funicular has been in operation since 1905, with tickets priced at 10 lari (plus 2 lari for a park card). At the summit, you’ll find an amusement park, restaurants, and scenic viewing platforms. A new cable car from Rustaveli Avenue is also available (12 lari for tourists, 3 lari for Georgian citizens).

Where to Stay: For budget travelers, Envoy Hostel in the Old Town offers dormitory beds starting at 25 lari per night. For more comfortable accommodations, consider Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, with rates starting at 200 lari per night.

Best Restaurants:

• Mapshalia — A budget-friendly option serving homemade Georgian cuisine, with a liter of wine for just 2 lari.
• Shavi Lomi — A trendy restaurant offering creative interpretations of traditional dishes.

Batumi — The Georgian Las Vegas by the Black Sea

Batumi dazzles with its contrasts: Orthodox churches stand alongside mosques, and casinos are nestled near family-friendly beaches. The city is alive day and night, making it a perfect destination for nightlife enthusiasts.

Batumi Boulevard stretches 7 kilometers along the coast, lined with sculptures by contemporary artists, fountains, cafes, and attractions. The highlight is the “Ali and Nino” statue, featuring 8-meter figures of lovers who move toward each other every 10 minutes to embrace.

Alphabet Tower, standing 130 meters tall, has become a symbol of the city. A ticket to the observation deck costs 20 lari, but the breathtaking views of Batumi and the Black Sea make it worthwhile.

Batumi Botanical Garden is one of the largest in the world, located 9 km from the city center on Green Cape. Its 113-hectare area is divided into climate zones showcasing plants from all continents. Entry costs 20 lari, and it’s advisable to dedicate a full day to explore.

Batumi Beaches feature pebbly shores with well-developed infrastructure. For more scenic options, venture outside the city to Ureki, known for its black magnetic sand (40 km from Batumi), and Gonio, which boasts Roman fortress ruins.

Georgian Military Highway and Kazbegi

One of the world’s most stunning mountain roads leads to the foot of Kazbek, the sacred mountain of Georgia. No visit to Georgia would be complete without experiencing this route.

Ananuri Fortress is the first stop along the way. This 17th-century fortress is beautifully situated on the shores of Zhinvali Reservoir. Entrance is free, and an hour is sufficient to explore. The tower offers views of the emerald artificial lake.

Gudauri is a ski resort located at an altitude of 2,200 meters. In summer, it’s popular for paragliding and hiking. Lifts operate year-round (10 lari for a single summer ride), providing stunning views of the Caucasus Ridge.

Gergeti Church is the jewel of Kazbegi. This 14th-century temple stands at 2,170 meters at the foot of Kazbek. A walk to the church takes 2-3 hours, while an off-road vehicle will get you there in 30 minutes (20-30 lari per person). It’s one of the most photographed locations in Georgia.

Hiking Routes: Treks to Gergeti Glacier (6-8 hours) and Kazbek Base Camp (2 days) start from Stepantsminda. No special preparation is needed for day hikes.

Wine Region Kakheti

Kakheti is the birthplace of wine, where people began winemaking using unique techniques in clay qvevri vessels buried in the ground over 8,000 years ago.

Sighnaghi, known as the “City of Love,” is surrounded by fortress walls. This Italian-style city perched on a mountain slope offers stunning views of the Alazani Valley. You can register a marriage here anytime, as the registry office operates 24/7.

Wine Cellars and Tastings: The “Graneli” winery offers tastings for 30 lari per person (free with a bottle purchase of 30 lari or more). Visitors can observe the qvevri winemaking process and purchase homemade wine starting at 10 lari per bottle.

Nekresi Monastery is one of Georgia’s oldest Christian monuments, dating back to the 6th century. Located on a mountaintop, it provides panoramic views of the Alazani Valley. The walk to the monastery takes about an hour.

Traditional Winemaking: In Kakheti villages, wine is still made using ancient recipes. Qvevri are buried for six months, imparting unique mineral notes to the wine.

Imereti and Kutaisi

Kutaisi, Georgia’s ancient capital, serves as a gateway to a region rich in caves and canyons. The city is quieter than Tbilisi but equally intriguing.

Prometheus Cave is one of Georgia’s largest. The 1.4 km excursion route meanders through halls adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. Entry costs 23 lari, and photography is typically included in the ticket price. The cave maintains a temperature of +14°C, so bring warm clothing.

Okatse Canyon features a thrilling suspended trail that stretches 780 meters long and hangs 50 meters above the canyon floor. Entry costs 20 lari. The walk takes 1.5-2 hours, leaving lasting impressions.

Gelati Monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage site founded in the 12th century by King David the Builder, who is buried here. The monastery is known for its unique frescoes.

Abandoned Sanatoriums are perfect for urban photography enthusiasts. The “Metallurg” and “Tskaltubo” sanatoriums, once elite Soviet resorts, now stand as picturesque ruins.

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Svaneti — Land of Towers and Glaciers

Svaneti is Georgia’s most remote and enigmatic region, where medieval tower-fortresses and centuries-old traditions are preserved.

Mestia serves as the administrative center of Svaneti, located at an altitude of 1,500 meters. It is accessible only by marshrutka from Kutaisi (20 lari, taking 4-5 hours through mountain roads) or by SUV.

Ushguli is Europe’s highest village at 2,200 meters and a UNESCO site where ancient Svan descendants reside. The journey from Mestia takes 2-3 hours by jeep (60 lari per car).

Svan Towers are unique defensive structures from the 11th to 13th centuries. Each family had its own tower, ranging from 20 to 25 meters high. Approximately 200 towers have been preserved in and around Mestia.

Trekking Routes: The classic Mestia-Ushguli trek covers 60 km over four days, passing through alpine meadows and ancient villages. Overnight stays in guesthouses cost 25-30 lari per person, including dinner and breakfast.

Georgian Cuisine and Drinks

Georgian cuisine embodies a philosophy of hospitality. Here, dining transcends mere eating; it involves elaborate feasts filled with toasts, songs, and lengthy conversations.

Main Dishes

Khachapuri — A source of national pride for Georgians, this dish comes in several varieties: adjarian (boat-shaped with egg and butter), imeretian (round with cheese), and megrelian (cheese both inside and out). Prices in cafes range from 10 to 24 lari.

Khinkali — These Georgian dumplings can be filled with meat, greens, or cheese. The key is to eat them with your hands, holding them by the tail, and to sip the broth first. In quality establishments, khinkali costs about 80 tetri each (approximately 12-18 lari for a portion of 10-15 pieces).

Lobio — A hearty bean stew cooked in a clay pot with herbs and spices, served alongside mchadi (cornbread) and pickled vegetables.

Mtsvadi — Georgian shashlik, grilled on vine branches to impart a unique aroma. Portions are priced between 13 and 25 lari, depending on the type of meat (pork is cheaper, lamb is more expensive).

Regional Cuisine Features

In Samegrelo (western Georgia), the cuisine leans towards the spicy, with dishes like Megrelian kharcho and gebzhalia (cheese in mint sauce). Adjara is known for its dishes featuring corn flour and seafood. Kakheti is famous not only for its wines but also for unique cheeses such as guda (aged in sheepskins) and dambal-khacho (brine cheese with herbs).

Georgian Wines and Chacha

Georgia is recognized as the birthplace of wine, boasting over 500 grape varieties, many of which are unique to the region. Saperavi is the king of reds, while Rkatsiteli is the most popular white variety.

Qvevri wine, made in clay vessels, offers a distinctive terroir taste. A quality wine bottle in stores costs between 7 and 20 lari, while in restaurants, prices range from 15 to 50 lari.

Chacha, a potent Georgian vodka made from grape pomace, typically has an alcohol content of 50-70 degrees. As a guest, it’s polite to accept chacha; a simple sip and a “gmadlobt” (thank you) will suffice.

Restaurant Recommendations in Georgia

Tbilisi: Mapshalia (affordable and authentic), Café Littera (haute cuisine in a museum garden), Shavi Lomi (modern Georgian cuisine).
Batumi: Sisters (dinner in a medieval atmosphere with live music), Wine Vault Kalandria (best wine selection in the city).
Kutaisi: Story (terrace with river views), local duqans (family taverns) serving homemade food.

The “Shemomechama” Phrase

“Shemomechama” (შემომეჭამა) literally translates to “I accidentally ate all this” or “I didn’t intend to, but I ate.” This phrase serves as an apology for overeating and will be understood by Georgians after a generous feast.

7-Day Georgia Itinerary

Days 1-2: Tbilisi — Arrival, check-in, and a stroll through Old Town. Visit sulfur baths, Narikala Fortress, and enjoy wine tasting. On the second day, explore museums, Mtatsminda, and shop along Rustaveli Avenue.

Day 3: Mtskheta and Kazbegi — Depart for the ancient capital Mtskheta (home to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral), then travel along the Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi. Overnight in a guesthouse.

Day 4: Kazbegi to Tbilisi — Morning hike to Gergeti Church, followed by an afternoon return to the capital via Ananuri Fortress.

Day 5: Kakheti — Take a day trip to the wine region, visiting Sighnaghi, enjoying wine tastings, and exploring Nekresi Monastery. Return to Tbilisi.

Days 6-7: Batumi — Transfer to the coast (1-hour flight or 5.5-hour train ride). Enjoy the beaches, boulevard, botanical garden, and cable car. If time permits, visit Makhuntseti Waterfall.

Itinerary Budget: $40-60 per day per person (guesthouse accommodation, meals at local cafes, and public transport).

Expert Travel Review for Independent Travel to Georgia

Georgia lives up to its reputation for incredible hospitality and affordability, although travel costs have increased in recent years. The contrast between regions is striking, from the cosmopolitan atmosphere of Tbilisi, with its sulfur baths and modern restaurants, to the authentic charm of Svaneti, where ancient towers evoke a sense of timelessness. Wine tours in Kakheti are a true revelation; tastings in family cellars using qvevri highlight why Georgia is celebrated as the birthplace of wine. Locals warmly welcome tourists, especially those who express interest in their culture and are open to trying traditional dishes.

Independent travel in Georgia requires some adjustment to the local pace of life. Marshrutkas leave when full rather than on a set schedule, and mountain roads can be challenging, particularly in Svaneti. However, these minor inconveniences are outweighed by breathtaking landscapes and authentic experiences. For comfortable travel, I recommend renting an SUV for mountainous regions and carrying cash, as cards are not accepted everywhere, especially in remote guesthouses. Georgia is perfect for those seeking a blend of affordability, cultural richness, and natural beauty without the crowds.

Expert Tips for Travelers

Should I bring cash dollars or withdraw from a card?

It’s better to bring cash dollars or euros, as exchange rates at offices are often more favorable than bank rates, with a commission of about 2%. ATMs may run out of cash, particularly on weekends and in mountainous areas. While dollars are widely exchanged, euros might not be. Cards are accepted in major cities, but cash is essential for villages and guesthouses.

Is it safe for a woman to travel alone in Georgia?

Absolutely. Georgian men respect women and often hold them in high regard. Solo female travelers in Georgia generally find it quite safe. Georgians are known for being open and, if they are fond of a woman, they may shower her with attention and compliments. This is a cultural norm, but polite refusals are always respected.

Can you drink tap water in Georgia?

Tbilisi is one of the few cities in the world where tap water is safe to drink. The chemical composition of the water meets WHO recommendations, though it may have a distinct taste and can be quite hard. In the mountains, spring water is clean and refreshing. Cafes usually serve filtered water for free.

Is everything in Georgia as cheap as advertised online?

Prices are not as low as they were 5-7 years ago, having increased by 1.5-2 times. An average check at a good Georgian restaurant is around 20-30 lari, while in a duqan (a local eatery), it ranges from 15-25 lari. A typical meal for two in an inexpensive cafe costs about 25-30 lari. Guesthouse accommodations range from 25-40 lari per night. Prices in Tbilisi are higher than in Moscow, with cafe and restaurant food and supermarket items being approximately 35% more expensive.

Is it worth visiting Georgia in winter if not for skiing?

Winter is an excellent time for budget travelers, as accommodation prices drop by 2-3 times, and there are fewer tourists, allowing for a relaxed exploration of attractions. Temperatures in Tbilisi hover around +5-10°C and are usually sunny. However, some mountain roads may be closed, and daylight hours are shorter. On the plus side, thermal springs are open year-round!

Which apps should I download for traveling in Georgia?

Essential apps include Bolt (taxi service), Maps.me (offline maps), and XE Currency (exchange rates). Useful apps are Booking.com, TripAdvisor (restaurant reviews), and izi.TRAVEL (free audio guides). For wine enthusiasts, check out Wine Map Georgia.

How much wine can I export from Georgia?

Officially, travelers can export up to 3 liters duty-free per person. However, homemade wine in plastic bottles is rarely checked. Factory wine in glass bottles should be packed in your suitcase. The limit for chacha (over 20 degrees) is one liter per person.

Is it true that Georgians aren’t punctual?

Yes, the concept of time in Georgia can be quite flexible. A phrase like “coming now” may mean in an hour. Marshrutkas leave when full rather than on a schedule, and restaurant dishes can take time to prepare. It’s wise to allow extra time for everything.

What food items should I definitely buy in Georgia?

Look for churchkhela, gozinaki, tkemali, adjika, and Svan salt. For drinks, consider homemade wine and chacha. Guda and dambal-khacho cheese are also great choices but are perishable. For spices, visit Deserter Market in Tbilisi for the largest selection at fair prices.

Where can I find authentic Georgian food, away from tourist traps?

Seek out duqans (family-run taverns) in residential neighborhoods. A good indication of authenticity is the presence of elderly Georgians dining there, with few tourists around. In the city center, avoid restaurants with Russian menus and aggressive touts. The best Georgian food is often found in guesthouses where the hostess prepares meals.

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