Normandy

Nestled in the northwestern part of France along the English Channel, Normandy is a region renowned for its stunning landscapes and rich historical significance. Named after the “Northmen” (Vikings) who settled in the area during the 9th century, Normandy has been shaped by centuries of eventful history, from medieval battles between England and France to the crucial D-Day landings of 1944, which marked a turning point in World War II.

For travelers, Normandy offers a remarkable combination of dramatic scenery, historic cities, picturesque villages, beautiful coastlines, and exceptional cuisine. Located just a two-hour drive from Paris, it serves as an ideal destination for both weekend getaways and week-long explorations.

Major Cities and Towns

Rouen – Normandy’s Capital

Rouen, the historic capital of Normandy, was once among Europe’s largest and wealthiest medieval cities. Today, it retains its medieval charm while integrating modern urban developments.

Must-see attractions:

• Rouen Cathedral (Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen) – This stunning Gothic cathedral was painted by Claude Monet over 30 times. Opening hours: daily from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM, free entrance.
• Gros-Horloge – An astronomical clock from 1389 that has been ticking for more than 600 years. Museum entrance fee: €8.
• Old Market Square (Place du Vieux-Marché) – The site where Joan of Arc was executed in 1431, now commemorated by a modern church dedicated to her memory.

Pro tip: Visit Rouen on Tuesday or Saturday to enjoy the local market in the cathedral square, where you can sample local delicacies at reasonable prices and soak up the authentic atmosphere of the city.

Honfleur

Honfleur is a charming port town located at the estuary of the Seine River. With its tall, narrow, colorful houses surrounding the old harbor, Honfleur appears to have sprung from an Impressionist painting—indeed, many Impressionist artists were inspired by the town.

Key attractions:

• The Old Harbor (Vieux Bassin) – A picturesque harbor framed by 16th- to 18th-century timber-frame houses, perfect for photography.
• Saint Catherine’s Church (Église Sainte-Catherine) – The largest wooden church in France, built in the 15th century by shipbuilders. Opening hours: 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM, free entrance.
• Art galleries and local artists’ studios – Scattered throughout the town, many are within walking distance of the harbor.

For a special meal, consider dining at “Le Cayo,” a restaurant near the harbor (prices: €30-50 per person). Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends. Alternatively, experience oysters at an oyster bar on an old boat in the harbor—an authentic experience at a reasonable price (€15-25).

Deauville

Nicknamed the “Parisian Riviera” and the “21st arrondissement of Paris,” Deauville is an upscale seaside resort that attracts the wealthy and famous. With its beautiful beaches, casino, and elegant atmosphere, Deauville offers a unique experience compared to other Norman towns.

Highlights:

• Deauville Boardwalk (Les Planches) – A renowned wooden promenade along the beach, adorned with beach cabins named after Hollywood stars attending the American Film Festival.
• Deauville Casino (Casino Barrière) – An opulent casino that opened in 1864. Opening hours: 10:00-03:00, ID required for entry.
• Villa Strassburger – An impressive villa from the “Roaring Twenties,” it has served as a filming location for various movies, including “Sherlock Holmes.”

To experience Deauville on a more budget-friendly basis, consider visiting midweek and outside the high season (September-October or April-May) when prices are lower yet the weather remains pleasant. For a good lunch at a reasonable price, check out the sandwiches and salads at “Café de Paris” near the beach (salmon sandwich approximately €13, avocado salad with smoked salmon around €15).

Natural Wonders

The Cliffs of Étretat

Étretat, a picturesque seaside town on the English Channel, is renowned for its stunning white chalk cliffs featuring natural arches and a needle-like rock emerging from the sea. It is one of France’s most iconic landscapes.

Don’t miss:

• The Three Natural Arches – Two arches are visible from the town’s boardwalk. During low tide, you can walk through the third arch.
• The Needle (L’Aiguille) – A 70-meter high conical formation rising from the sea.
• The Gardens of Étretat (Les Jardins d’Étretat) – Beautiful gardens atop the cliff offering panoramic views of the sea and arches. Entrance fee: €15, opening hours: 10:00-19:00 (May-October).

Arrive at Étretat early in the morning (before 10:00) or in the late afternoon to avoid the crowds. Experiencing a sunset at Étretat is breathtaking, as the sun’s rays illuminate the chalk cliffs in orange-golden hues. Check tide times in advance if you plan to walk on the beach.

Historical Sites in Normandy

Mont Saint-Michel

Mont Saint-Michel is undoubtedly Normandy’s most famous attraction—a small tidal island crowned by a magnificent Gothic abbey that appears to rise from the sea. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most visited destinations in France.

Essential information:

• The Abbey (Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel) – Construction began in the 10th century, and it stands as an architectural masterpiece. Entrance fee: €11, opening hours: 9:00-19:00 (May-August), 9:00-18:00 (rest of the year).
• The Medieval Village – Characterized by narrow, enchanting streets winding up to the abbey, lined with shops and restaurants.
• The Changing Landscape – The landscape around the island dramatically transforms with the tide.

You cannot drive directly to the island. Instead, park in the designated parking lots (€15 per day) and take the free shuttle or walk approximately 4 km to reach the island. To avoid tourist crowds, arrive early in the morning (before 9:00) or in the late evening. Check tide times in advance, as the visitor experience can vary significantly between high and low tide. When the tide is at its highest (about 20-30 times per year, mainly in spring), the island becomes completely surrounded by water, offering a breathtaking view.

D-Day Beaches

On June 6, 1944, the Allies executed the largest seaborne invasion in history on the beaches of Normandy, setting the stage for the liberation of Europe from Nazi occupation. Today, the landing beaches and related sites serve as pilgrimage destinations for visitors from around the globe.

Key beaches and landmarks include:

Omaha Beach

• An 8 km stretch of beach noted for being the most difficult to capture and experiencing the highest number of casualties.
• The “Brave One” Monument (Le Brave) – A striking metal sculpture located on the beach.
• Access: Open 24/7, free entry.

Normandy American Cemetery

• Contains 9,388 white marble headstones, each engraved with a name, military rank, and date of death.
• The Wall of the Missing bears 1,557 names.
• Opening hours: 9:00-18:00 (April-September), 9:00-17:00 (October-March), free entrance.

Pointe du Hoc

• Features a German fortified position atop a 30-meter high cliff, complete with bomb craters and bunkers.
• This is where American Rangers famously climbed with rope ladders to seize the cliff.
• Opening hours: 9:00-18:00 (April-September), 9:00-17:00 (October-March), free entrance.

Arromanches-les-Bains

• The site of the “Mulberry Harbor,” portable harbors constructed by the Allies.
• The Landing Museum (Musée du Débarquement) showcases a scaled model of the artificial harbor. Entrance fee: €8. Opening hours: 9:30-18:30 (summer), 10:00-17:30 (winter).

Plan to dedicate at least one full day to explore the D-Day beaches. Consider hiring a professional guide for the day (€250-350 for a small group) to discover lesser-known sites and hear captivating stories. Alternatively, you can purchase a dedicated guide app (D-Day Guide app, approximately €5) for self-guided navigation between sites.

Norman Gastronomy

Normandy is a haven for food and beverage enthusiasts, rich in agricultural produce. Norman cuisine is particularly famous for its cheeses, apples, cider, and fresh seafood.

Local Foods and Cheeses

Normandy is renowned for four traditional cheeses:

• Camembert – A soft cheese named after a small village in Normandy, authentic Camembert is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk.
• Livarot – A strong and distinctive cheese characterized by its red band, which has earned it the nickname “The Colonel” due to its stripes resembling military ranks.
• Pont-l’Évêque – A mild-flavored cheese with a soft texture that dates back to the 12th century.
• Neufchâtel – A heart-shaped soft cheese, symbolizing the affection of local women for English soldiers during the Middle Ages.

Visit local markets for tastings and purchase cheeses directly from producers at prices that are often more favorable than those in shops. The cheese market in Lisieux operates on Tuesdays and Saturdays, offering an impressive selection at fair prices.

Alcoholic Beverages

Cider (Cidre)

• A sparkling apple beverage available in varying levels of sweetness: sweet (doux), semi-dry (demi-sec), and dry (brut).
• The Cider Route (Route du Cidre) is a 40 km tourist route winding through picturesque villages and apple orchards, with many cider producers offering tastings.

Calvados

• A distilled apple brandy aged in oak barrels, enhancing its flavors over time. Quality Calvados can be aged for 25 years or more.
• Dupont Distillery (Calvados Dupont) is a family-run distillery known for producing exceptionally high-quality Calvados and offers tours and tastings. Tour and tasting price: €10.

In Normandy, cider is regarded as the national drink, traditionally poured from a pitcher into small bowl-like cups called bolées. Particularly aged Calvados (20+ years) is costly but worth sampling for spirit enthusiasts. You can also purchase small gift sets containing Calvados of various ages for comparative tasting.

Travel Tips

Transportation

Rental Car

• Main advantage: Freedom to explore at your own pace and access more remote locations.
• Cost: €40-70 per day, depending on the season and vehicle type.
• It is recommended to book in advance to save on costs, especially during the summer.

Trains and Buses

• The TGV line connects main cities in Normandy, including Rouen, Caen, and Cherbourg.
• Travel time from Paris to Rouen is approximately an hour and a half.
• Ticket prices range from €20-35 one way.
• Buses: Flixbus offers direct routes from Paris at affordable prices, starting from €9.

If you primarily plan to visit the larger cities, taking the train is the recommended option. For a comprehensive exploration of the region, a rental car is essential. Direct buses to Mont Saint-Michel are available from Rennes and Caen, priced at €15-20 one way.

Best Seasons to Visit

Summer (June-August)

• Advantages: Pleasant weather (18-25°C), long days, and numerous festivals.
• Disadvantages: It is peak tourist season with high prices and crowded popular sites.

Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September-November)

• Advantages: Fewer tourists, more reasonable prices, and generally pleasant weather.
• Disadvantages: There is a higher chance of rain, particularly in October-November.

Spring and autumn are the most ideal times to visit Normandy. September, in particular, is highly recommended: the weather remains pleasant, tourists start to thin out, and prices begin to decrease. Keep in mind that Normandy’s weather can be unpredictable throughout the year—be sure to pack layers and an umbrella, even in summer.

Accommodation Options

Hotels

• Major cities like Rouen, Caen, Bayeux, and Deauville offer a variety of hotels.
• Prices: A double room in a 3-star hotel ranges from €80-120 during the high season and €60-90 off-season.

Châteaux and Country Estates

• Experience a unique stay in historic castles and estates converted into boutique hotels.
• Prices: €150-300 per night, depending on the hotel quality and season.
• Recommendations: Château La Chenevière near Bayeux and Château d’Audrieu located between Caen and Bayeux.

Bed and Breakfasts (Chambres d’hôtes)

• These establishments, resembling traditional B&Bs, are often found in charming country houses.
• Prices: €70-120 per night, including breakfast.
• Advantages: Enjoy personal hosting, an authentic atmosphere, and opportunities to connect with locals.

Be sure to book your accommodation in advance, especially during the summer. For longer stays (more than a week), consider renting a country house (gîte), which is a cost-effective option that offers an authentic experience. Prices start at €400-500 per week for a house suitable for four people.

Recommended Itineraries

3-Day Itinerary: Classic Normandy

Day 1: Rouen and Giverny

• Morning: Explore Rouen, including a visit to Notre-Dame Cathedral and the old town.
• Noon: Drive to Giverny (approximately 45 minutes).
• Afternoon: Tour Claude Monet’s house and gardens.
• Evening: Continue on to Honfleur (about 90 minutes) for an overnight stay.

Day 2: Honfleur, Deauville, and Bayeux

• Morning: Discover Honfleur, including the old harbor and Saint Catherine’s Church.
• Noon: Drive to Deauville (around 20 minutes).
• Afternoon: Stroll along Deauville’s boardwalk, then proceed to Bayeux (about 40 minutes).
• Evening: Overnight in Bayeux.

Day 3: D-Day Beaches and Mont Saint-Michel

• Morning: Visit the Landing Museum in Bayeux and see the Bayeux Tapestry.
• Noon: Tour Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery.
• Afternoon: Drive to Mont Saint-Michel (roughly 90 minutes).
• Evening: Explore Mont Saint-Michel and enjoy the sunset.

This itinerary is packed and includes relatively long drives, so consider adding an extra day if possible. To save time in queues, book tickets in advance for popular sites like Monet’s house in Giverny and the Bayeux Tapestry.

5-Day Itinerary: Deeper Exploration

Day 1: Rouen

• Spend the day focused on Normandy’s capital, visiting Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Gros-Horloge, and the art museum.
• Overnight in Rouen.

Day 2: Giverny and Honfleur

• Visit Monet’s house and gardens in Giverny.
• Continue to Honfleur for a tour and an overnight stay.

Day 3: Deauville, Beuvron-en-Auge, and Dupont Distillery

• Morning in Deauville: enjoy the boardwalk, beach, and casino.
• Visit the picturesque village of Beuvron-en-Auge.
• Experience a tour and tastings at the Calvados Dupont distillery.
• Overnight in the area.

Day 4: D-Day Beaches

• Full day itinerary: visit the museum in Bayeux, Omaha Beach, the American Cemetery, and Pointe du Hoc.
• Overnight in Bayeux or Caen.

Day 5: Mont Saint-Michel and Étretat

• Spend the morning at Mont Saint-Michel.
• In the afternoon and evening, visit Étretat to admire the spectacular cliffs and watch the sunset.

Festivals and Special Events

• American Film Festival in Deauville – Early September hosts this prestigious festival, attracting movie stars from around the globe. Consider booking accommodation outside Deauville during this time for substantial savings.
• Normandy Liberation Celebrations – Early June, around June 6th, features memorial ceremonies, historical reenactments, and exhibitions along the landing beaches.
• Calvados and Cider Festival – October-November celebrates the region’s traditional beverage production processes.

Additional Practical Advice

Tides Consideration

Normandy is known for its dramatic tidal phenomena, particularly in the Mont Saint-Michel area, where tidal differences can reach up to 15 meters. Check the tide schedule before visiting sites like Mont Saint-Michel and Étretat beaches. At high tide, Mont Saint-Michel is surrounded by water, creating a breathtaking sight. This phenomenon occurs only about 20-30 times a year, mainly during the spring months.

Money-Saving Tips

• Combined Tickets – Purchase the Pass Normandie (approximately €45) for discounted entry to multiple sites.
• Meal Times – Take advantage of fixed lunch menus (menu du jour) at restaurants, which offer complete meals at a significantly lower price than dinner (€15-25 versus €30-50).
• Parking – In cities like Rouen and Honfleur, seek out car parks at the edge of town (Park & Ride) and use public transport to reach the center, saving €10-15 per day.

Shopping and Souvenirs

• Cheeses – Norman cheeses are well-preserved and make excellent souvenirs, with market prices ranging from €3-8 per cheese.
• Calvados – Small bottles (200 ml) of quality Calvados start at €15 and can be taken in hand luggage.
• Norman ceramics and textiles – Durable souvenirs with longer lifespans, priced from €15-50 for small items.

Family-Friendly Information

• Parks and Animals – Families with children can enjoy Festyland park near Caen (entrance: €20 for adults, €17 for children) and Jurques Zoo (entrance: €18 for adults, €12 for children).
• Beach Activities: Beaches such as Deauville, Carteret, and Caen provide a range of activities for children, including summer beach clubs.
• Kid-Friendly Museums: The Landing Museum in Arromanches and the Castle Museum in Caen feature special activities designed for children.

Normandy is a tourist destination that boasts a captivating blend of intriguing history, stunning landscapes, vibrant culture, and exceptional cuisine. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, an art lover, a gastronomy aficionado, or simply seeking an authentic French experience, Normandy will surpass all expectations.